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Thread: Neander Chippendale Lowboy Build – Part 1 Layout/Rough Sizing

  1. #1
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    Neander Chippendale Lowboy Build – Part 1 Layout/Rough Sizing

    After extensivenegotiations with the Boss, I finally got approval of a furniture design I’ll can use at work to spread out papers so I can see them (whatever happened to the paperless office?), and ultimately may end up as a sofa table behind the couchat home.

    I wanted to build Garret Hack’s sideboard, which is more of a shaker style, but the Boss said that certainly wouldn’t go with the home decor and I needed “something with more curves and carving”. We finally reached a “negotiated settlement” for a Chippendale lowboy in Franklin Gottschall’s “Masterpiece Furniture”. I highly recommend this book for the experienced woodworker; lots of projects that I personally like, with simple, no-nonsense descriptions. The plans are way too small for my eyes and will have to be enlarged, but gives you all the basic information you need.
    1.jpg

    Regrettably I had to change the dimensions to make it a little narrower and shorter per the Boss’s specifications. Of course this means I can’t just rely on the plans/dimensions in the book, so naturally I will have lots of opportunity to screw up the conversions.


    I’m building it in cherry, because it’s one of my favorite hand tool woods and I already had some in the shop left over from another project. I told the boss I would probably only need about $100 worth additional lumber - turns out I was off by about $300-let’s hope I have something decent to show her before she sees the bill J.

    One of the things that made the biggest improvement in my furniture project over the years is not to skimp on the initial layout of furniture components on the rough lumber. Here’s a picture of my shop is with rough lumber spread out on pretty much every horizontal surface for the layout process:
    1.5.jpg


    I like to lay outall the major components about 1 inch oversize in crayon and write the final dimensions in pencil, circled on each piece so I don’t forget what’s what. I tried to match figure/grain as best as possible for components that will be adjacent to each other.

    2.jpg3.jpg


    Due to my thrifty Scottish heritage, I used to layout to try and get as many usable components as possible by cramming as much as I could into every single board. One of the things I enjoy most about hand tools is they give you the flexibility to pick out the grain and figure that best fits with the individual components, regardless of how their oriented in the original board. I’m sure you can do this with power tools, it’s just easier for me to “draw the line, see the line, cut the line”.


    Here’s a picture of what I hope will be the top drawer front:
    5.jpg5.5.jpg

    I’m trying to make the top appear like a single board by matching the grain for the glue up. The middle section of the top is to the left and I’m hoping I can glue up these two pieces from an adjacent section of the same board to frame the middle piece so that the top looks like a single board. Certainly won’t fool and experienced eye, but might be close enough:

    4.jpg


    Here’s the 12/4 that will become the ball and claw feet and the carved central drawer front:
    6.jpg
    Last edited by Mike Allen1010; 09-03-2014 at 7:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    Red face

    This is an example of how I try to justify having so many hand saws this 5 PPI crosscut D-8 makes this a pretty easy job - these three cross cuts literally took me five minutes (yes I know this is a gross rationalization and confirmation I have “a bad hand saw problem”):
    8.jpg11.jpg


    With a little practice it’s pretty easy to get accurate results:

    9.jpg7.jpg10.jpg

    The next step will be shaping the profile of the legs and then my first attempt at the ball and claw feet – wish me luck I’m definitely going to need it!

    I'll post more pictures as I move along. Thanks for looking.

    All the best, Mike

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    Mike - "Fight On", love the SC blanket.

  4. #4
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    Looking forward to seeing how this comes out!

    Every time I see one of your posts that mentions a saw, I remember I really need to pick up a coarser crosscut saw, and try a little more fleam on my fine cross cut…

  5. #5
    Nice, Mike. I like that the boss likes to dial up the difficulty level with the "more carving and curves".

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    I like the using a square to insure vertical cut.

    Tell us more about the 5 ppi cross cut saw. Did you re-purpose a rip saw. How smooth does it feel when cutting?

    After viewing the saw tills in one of the first pictures, you do have a saw problem.
    How many saws do you have.
    Last edited by lowell holmes; 09-04-2014 at 4:17 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    Tell us more about the 5 ppi cross cut saw. Did you re-purpose a rip saw. How smooth does it feel when cutting?
    Ditto. Does it vibrate like my Harley at red line?
    The Barefoot Woodworker.

    Fueled by leather, chrome, and thunder.

  8. #8
    Very inspiring Mike,even for me who totally dislikes this kind of furniture. But I like your commitment and am pleased to read about it. I wish you good luck.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    Nice, Mike. I like that the boss likes to dial up the difficulty level with the "more carving and curves".
    That girl is some kind of negotiator – right? I guess that's why she's the boss.

    Based on my game willingness to attempt to meet her request for "something with more curves and carving", seems like I should have some kind of leverage here to push for some kind of gesture of reciprocity from her?

    Now if I can only find that Victoria's Secret catalog….......wait a minute, I'll probably have to cash in these "chips" to cover the cost of the lumber, which I grossly underestimated. Dang it, I was this close…

    Cheers, Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    Tell us more about the 5 ppi cross cut saw. Did you re-purpose a rip saw. How smooth does it feel when cutting?
    After viewing the saw tills in one of the first pictures, you do have a saw problem.
    How many saws do you have.

    Lowell and Adam,

    The 5 1/2 PPI Disston D-8 thumb hole was originally configured as a rip saw from the factory. I refilled it for crosscutting, just for jobs like this – thick, wide stock. It works great, smooth with no chattering of vibration in the kerf, provided the stock is big enough so that that you have more than a handful of teeth engaged in the kerf. The primary challenges getting it started, but anyone with a little experience with sharp handsaw's wouldn't have a problem.

    In fact, I'm surprised how much I use this on. It is super useful for larger scale, non-furniture projects – I've used it a lot for an outdoor deck/patio, quick and dirty picnic table, fence posts etc. If you get a chance, give it a try, think you will be surprised how much you like a coarse pitch crosscut saw. Of course, this is coming from a guy who doesn't have a powered alternative.

    All the best, Mike

  11. #11
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    Of coarse, I'm sure there will be more than one refilled by Sawmill Creek members. I'm thinking about which saw I might use.
    I may have to go to the auction site to find one.

    I could take one to Circle Saw in Houston and have it re-toothed.

  12. #12
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    Great build Mike, looking forward to seeing each step of progress.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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