Jointer Traction issues...

[John Sanford]

Today, I finally started using my MiniMax FS30, and it's mostly a joy to use. The annoyances of it are not the topic of this thread though. Rather, it is something that I have encountered a little bit before, but the work I was doing today really brings the issue to the fore.

I'm working on my new workbench, which will likely turn out to be a Split-top Roubo (split or not is the question), a long one, about 9' or so. A 9' top means processing 9'+ hard maple lumber, 8/4, 6" or wider to start with. I've tagged the jointer beds with TopCote, but I'm still having a heck of a time keeping the timbers (borrowing an appropriate term from the rest of the Anglosphere) moving. My hands will slip, and even the pushblocks will slip. I'm wearing gloves since I've gotten sliced before by hard maple's sharp 90d edges, and my soft computerdude hands don't want to be bleeding any more on this bench.

I need more traction between me and the timbers... suggestions?

[Matt Day]

Maybe try some good ole paste wax and see if that's any better? Globes are my go to when I run into this. I use the sticky nitrile type gloves.

[Robert LaPlaca]

I'm working on my new workbench, which will likely turn out to be a Split-top Roubo (split or not is the question), a long one, about 9' or so. A 9' top means processing 9'+ hard maple lumber, 8/4, 6" or wider to start with. I've tagged the jointer beds with TopCote, but I'm still having a heck of a time keeping the timbers (borrowing an appropriate term from the rest of the Anglosphere) moving.

I need more traction between me and the timbers... suggestions?

Wow, that is quite a formidable task... I would second the suggestion of using lots of paste wax on the jointer beds, also one would assume that the knives are sharp and the depth of cut is not too heavy.. As much as I like my MM jointer/planer I don't think the bed length is optimal for really long lumber lengths, without resorting to jointer bed extensions..

[Bernie May]

I have a combo unit that experiences similar resistance to wood sliding, especially in planer mode. I was told one should sand the tables with 400 grit wet dry paper. I plan to do that soon. I first cleaned them and waxed them and that helped, but not enough to my satisfaction.

[Dave Cullen]

I've had that issue with maple too. I find that wearing heavy leather welding gloves and wrapping my fingers around the top of the board gives me a better grip, though with a 6" jointer my stock is narrower than what you have. My push blocks have rubber soles which help a bit too.

I watched an oak "timber" being jointed at a local hardwood dealer and they had a power feeder that made short work of it. Just sayin'...

[Bill Orbine]

Paste wax..... on the tables. Butcher's Wax, the bowling alley paste. For both the jointer and planer tables.


If the stock is still difficult to move, especially with the jointer, you need some help with support. Especially at the start and the end of the feed. Consider an extra set of hands or stands. For support only! You feed and guide!

[Prashun Patel]

Make a long push shoe with a cleat at the heel. This will allow you to use parallel force instead of relying on friction to do that.

The super long length of the shoe will require multiple handles so you can leapfrog.

[Rod Sheridan]

John, the jointer and planer tables require waxing, frequently unless you wish to use spray lubricant such as the Supergleit that's available from felder and I presume MiniMax..Rod.

[Erik Loza]

Make a long push shoe with a cleat at the heel. This will allow you to use parallel force instead of relying on friction to do that....

+1 ^^^^, in addition to the paste wax. I use the leather-palmed Mechanix-type gloves as well.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Prashun Patel]

Also, in my limited experience, a hard block of paraffin wax is a better lube for jointer beds and plane bottoms than paste wax or any of the more "protecty" kinds of coatings. A little scribbling like a 5-year old on a wall is all you need and it really does wonders.

[mreza Salav]

I had to plane hundreds of 8/4 (8-9' lenghts) boards, some 8" wide for the 31 doors I made. After the first 10 or so pieces I realized how labour intensive the task is (I have a FS350, which has a slightly longer bed). You need support on the back and front if you want to do it manually. I eventually installed a powerfeeder on my Jointer to do it for me. One of the best ever decisions I made.

[Myk Rian]

I have a combo unit that experiences similar resistance to wood sliding, especially in planer mode. I was told one should sand the tables with 400 grit wet dry paper. I plan to do that soon. I first cleaned them and waxed them and that helped, but not enough to my satisfaction.

And what is the reasoning behind sanding them? It's something I wouldn't do.

[Erik Loza]

And what is the reasoning behind sanding them? It's something I wouldn't do.

One thing I do on all new machines is go at the table surfaces with scotchbrite pad and some oil under my RO palm sander. Knocks down the grain left by the milling machines. Then paste wax. have heard of folks using sandpaper but the scotchbrites always worked fine for me. Running wood for a while accomplishes the same thing but you can just duplicate the result quickly with the scotchbrite.

The "planer" part of jointer/planers, no matter which brand you own or how much you spent for it, always seem to be really sensitive to drag on the feed assembly so the waxing the planer bed is really important there.

Just my 2-cents.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Mel Fulks]

I never use gloves when using a jointer. Push block is a block of wood with three sharp screw points protruding about a 1/4 inch.
I'm never pushing a board without down pressure on out feed table and the screw points are the best way I've found to do
that without help.

[Judson Green]

Something I've done when processing long and heavy lumber is to NOT plant my body above the cutter head, pressing down and feeding from there. You can drop the leading end of the board on the jointer and push it/guide it in to the cutter head from the very back end of the board, just like you would with a table saw. When the board gets near the center (fully supported by the jointer) walk to leading end of the board and drag it though. I usually pulled the board back to the infeed side just a inch or two before walking to the other end. When squaring you've got to keep your eye on the fence and don't lift up too much on the board or you'll bring it out of the cutter head.

You might think your results won't be that great but I think you'll be surprised. Did this all the time in my shop and the commercial shops I've worked in. Obviously when your lumber/boards gets to smaller lengths you'll move back over the cutter head.