Pigsticker handle options

[Adam Cruea]

Hi Adam

I'm coming in late.

I would concur with Hornbeam (just on reputation), although I have used a number of different hard woods. Interlocked woods are best.

There is an old article on my website on re-handling mortice chisels: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRes...%20Chisel.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

I actually read that article when it came up on a Google search for re-handling mortise chisels. It's what made me think "hey, maybe it's not as dreadful as I think it might be."

[Adam Cruea]

Soo. . .update on this.

All my sawyer could get me was Apple, and a 2x2x6 inch block (enough for this handle) would have been $50. Unfortunately, this is a little rich for my blood (I'd make ebony handles as they would probably be cheaper), and my beech handle broke before I got the chance to get hornbeam at all.

When the beech handle split, lo and behold, the tang on a Ray Isles is a consistent size (not a spike). Also, it seems from the factory, all they do is bore a hole down through a blank, then drive the tang into the hole; so, this is what I did. I bored a 5/8" hole 3 inches deep (the tang was 1/2" x 1/2"). Then I took a 1/2" chisel and made an approximate square to register the sides of the tang against, put it in my end vise, and gave it a few good raps. Handle seated, didn't split; it was pretty snug, actually (I can't pull the handle off, so hey).

After that I just split the hickory to rough size with a 1 1/4" chisel (one should start at the bolster end; I was an idiot and split from the other end and the back of my handle show about 1/16" of D2 bolster). From there, you just take rasps and spokeshave and shape the handle to your preference. Mine actually is oval near the bolster, but the farther up it goes, the more square-ish it becomes until it's about 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" up top. Since I used hickory, I ran some 220 over it to get all the little splinters and stuff that would make mincemeat of my hand. Took it for a test run and pounded out a mortise with it and I must say, it now has a much more solid feel than the beech handles ever did, and it has yet to split.

I noticed at the top of the beech handle that came on the 'sticker that there's an ever so small knot that has been displaced; it looks squished and scrunched. I'm wondering if that's what caused the handle to start failing in the first place. Either way, I may just split the beech handle on my 1/4" mortiser and replace it with hickory, too. When I can get hold of some hornbeam, I'll definitely split the hickory handle off and give the hornbeam a shot since the handle took less than half a day to make.

Anyway, just an update, and maybe in case someone else runs into a splitting handle, another approach to re-handling a very good mortise chisel.

[Sean Hughto]

That is a crazy price for that little chunk of apple. My friend Francis sells nice apple, including 8/4, for much less on eBay.

[David Weaver]

2x2 apple sticks are out there for cheap on ebay, as sean is suggesting. I think I bought two moulding plane blanks out of apple (8/4, quartered, plane size) for $14 each quite some time ago.

If hickory is what you have, then hickory is a good thing to use. The next time you get in a bind and need something, just put a WTB in the classifieds, someone will probably pitch up a small stick for the cost of shipping. I would've.