Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Non-Toxic Finish

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Currently in Mexico
    Posts
    356

    Non-Toxic Finish

    Hey everybody,

    I need a non-toxic finish for a baby's crib. It doesn't really matter what kind at all since the crib will be used for a very small amount of time (only 2 or 3 months).

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    1,578
    Shellac. Well I tried to submit the one word but th eprogram said it had to be longer. Shellac is the only finish that I know of as they use it to finsih pills so the FDA must be happy with it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,910
    ALL finishes sold today are non-toxic when fully cured. Use what you are most comfortable applying and that will give you the characteristics you prefer. And for the record, there is no governmental body that "approves" finishes for things like "food safe" or anything like that!! The shellac in Cecil's example is really considered an ingredient, not a "finish"...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Currently in Mexico
    Posts
    356
    Thanks guys,

    Jim, does what you say apply to salad bowls too or is there a special finish for that?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,910
    Quote Originally Posted by Allen Grimes
    Jim, does what you say apply to salad bowls too or is there a special finish for that?
    Strictly speaking, it applies overall. That said, some folks prefer a renewable finish for salad bowls, such as mineral oil; others prefer a film finish such as the "rock hard salad bowl finish" which is a varnish. They just "clean up" differently after use...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Currently in Mexico
    Posts
    356
    Thanks again Jim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    974
    If you are truely paranoid (like me!) go with pure shellac flakes dissolved in Everclear (pure grain alcohol). Some denatured alcohols and shellac solvent use metallic driers or "denaturing" agents. I'm not sure the metals would "flash off" when drying, so I erred on caution. I'm sure the amounts left in the finish are miniscule and that's why they are labelled non-toxic when dry, but why take chances? Doctors and EPA, etc. have been known to be wrong in the past and change allowable exposure limits.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    11,896
    Quote Originally Posted by Russ Filtz
    If you are truely paranoid (like me!) go with pure shellac flakes dissolved in Everclear (pure grain alcohol).
    Russ, what do you with the leftovers?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    974
    Mmmm, not much left over after the mandatory taste testing to see if it's OK!

    edit - PRIOR to shellac mixing!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,935
    Hmmm.. If I remember my Navy days correctly, I'm not so sure that Everclear is the lesser of the two evils.
    All joking aside, does Everclear really work well?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Andersonville, TN
    Posts
    157
    Tried and True Danish Oil finish does not contain any toxic compounds. It's an alternative to shellac which might be attractive to you in case you don't want a film finish. It makes cherry look almost edible.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,910
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Knepper
    Tried and True Danish Oil finish does not contain any toxic compounds. It's an alternative to shellac which might be attractive to you in case you don't want a film finish. It makes cherry look almost edible.
    The only difference between the T&T product and regular BLO in this respect is that it would be "safer" if you were drinking it since they use a heat process in manufacturing to provide curing rather than metalic dryers. Once cured, there is absolutely no difference in "safety". Please note that I am very much a T&T fan of the original oil formula and the oil/beeswax formula and use it on decorative objects that I have no intention of putting any additional finish over the oil. (The varnish oil formula is horrible, IMHO) But their labling is misleading are with respect to "food safe", etc. (as misleading as many other finish companies are about certain claims about this and that) There is no testing or certification of the same done...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    Good info, thanks for the question, I have to finish a cradle for my friends twins this month!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    974
    Everclear works as good or better than denatured, basically it's PURE alcohol which evaporates during the drying process so your kid won't get drunk! It's 190 proof (95%) which is the strongest you can get outside the lab. My old chem prof. said if you could make 100%, it would immediately absorb water from the air and become 190 proof due to the dilution factor of water.

Similar Threads

  1. Tung Oil, BLO, Danish Oil - is there a difference
    By Roger Barga in forum Project Finishing
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 11-12-2012, 1:15 PM
  2. Thoughts on my projects finish
    By John Lubeski in forum Project Finishing
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-19-2008, 4:52 PM
  3. Finish for "Plytanium" Paneling
    By Bob Borzelleri in forum Project Finishing
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-15-2005, 3:42 PM
  4. Question on tung oil/varnish finishing
    By Perry Schmidt in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-14-2003, 1:06 PM
  5. Tung Oil Finish Practicality
    By Jim Young in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 08-07-2003, 12:54 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •