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Thread: Use for ruined table saw blade

  1. Pull off the cartridge and make it a clock. You set that thing off once a year? Good grief, that's expensive. I go back and forth on saw stop, thinking the safety is great but I'd sure hate to ruin a nice blade by mistake. I think I'd have to disable the safety whenever I use it. So then why have a saw stop? I dunno, what a conundrum.

    Wayne

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,432
    Quote Originally Posted by wayne booker View Post
    Pull off the cartridge and make it a clock. You set that thing off once a year? Good grief, that's expensive. I go back and forth on saw stop, thinking the safety is great but I'd sure hate to ruin a nice blade by mistake. I think I'd have to disable the safety whenever I use it. So then why have a saw stop? I dunno, what a conundrum.

    Wayne
    Don't even go near there, dude..........

    This horse has been absolutely beaten to a pulp here, for years after it died.

    The number of SawStop threads that have been locked is equaled only by the number of Grizzly Customer Service threads that have been locked. The swords and pitchforks get sharpened, and the battle is joined, the "discussion" ends up in the same place every time, the Mod Squad lets it go as long as they can until the emotions overrule sensibility and civility. I used to enjoy them simply for the entertainment value.

    Those SS threads are all available if you search for them. Bring yer popcorn - the BIG bucket.

    And...bring some hotdogs to cut on your TS.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  3. #18
    I read once where a guy cut out a rectangular section of a blade with a single tooth on it and used it as a parting tool on a metal lathe. I thought that was pretty slick.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,287
    Quote Originally Posted by ernest dubois View Post
    I do recall, from another era, an article from Fine Woodworking describing the method of making custom shaper knives for reproducing historic moldings, cut from circle-saw blades. If it's feasible or not I can't say but there you have it, from Fine woodworking no less. Once the composition of the metal used throughout these blades was known then the next step could be figured out.
    Hi Ernest, the plate on saw blades is far thinner than any shaper knife I would be happy about using............Rod.

  5. #20
    There's a guy on You Tube that makes ninja shurikens out of old saw blades. They seem to work very well, for what they are. I haven't tried it myself. They're also illegal in many states, including IL.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Hi Ernest, the plate on saw blades is far thinner than any shaper knife I would be happy about using............Rod.
    Ok, try this one, I remember Yeung Chan also sending out an article on the tools he makes, chisels, carving knives, spokeshave blades, scratch stock, things like that. The blade blanks he cuts from circle-saw blades. Still before going to the trouble it would be good to know just what the material is made up of.
    Last edited by ernest dubois; 10-16-2014 at 4:42 AM.

  7. #22
    Personally, I'd use it to take up any free space in my garbage can. I don't know about you, but I need MORE free time, not less. Fiddling around with a broken saw blade seems like a complete waste of time. The one thing I'd consider is the saw clock idea, because that's cheap and easy and you don't really have to do any work, but I've never had a clock in the shop, so.....

  8. #23
    Yes, I'm personally inclined to agree. Still there was an inquiry made and a variety of inclinations out there.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    731
    + 1 for Clock

    OSHA won't let a sharpener repair a damaged blade that might be dangerous. No more crack welding, plugging, etc. When saw blades come apart it can be really nasty.

    We do buy carbide. A solid carbide tool is fine as are saw tips removed from the saw blade.

    Tom
    Carbide Processors

    From: A Guide for Protecting Workers from WoodworkingHazards
    U.S. Department of Labor
    OSHA 3157 - 1999
    http://www.osha.gov/Publications/osha3157.pdf

    You must also remove any cracked or damaged bladesfrom service. Keep circular saw blades round and balanced. You must removedull, badly set, improperly filed or improperly tensioned saws from service,and immediately clean saws to which gum has adhered.
    I'm a Creeker, yes I m.
    I fries my bacon in a wooden pan.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NY State
    Posts
    283
    I did the same thing when I first got my ss. Ran some p.t lumber and the brake fired. Haven't had it fire again. I am planning on calling Forest to see if they can make it like new for a fraction of the cost of a new ww II.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Walz View Post
    + 1 for Clock

    OSHA won't let a sharpener repair a damaged blade that might be dangerous. No more crack welding, plugging, etc. When saw blades come apart it can be really nasty.

    We do buy carbide. A solid carbide tool is fine as are saw tips removed from the saw blade.

    Tom
    Carbide Processors

    From: A Guide for Protecting Workers from WoodworkingHazards
    U.S. Department of Labor
    OSHA 3157 - 1999
    http://www.osha.gov/Publications/osha3157.pdf

    You must also remove any cracked or damaged bladesfrom service. Keep circular saw blades round and balanced. You must removedull, badly set, improperly filed or improperly tensioned saws from service,and immediately clean saws to which gum has adhered.
    I'm curious. What do you do with the carbide? Does it get melted down and cast into blanks? I'm always curious how people make money on stuff that I normally just toss in the trash!

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pottstown PA
    Posts
    972
    Quote Originally Posted by David Ragan View Post
    Couple of times it was when I put a Sears plywood blade on it--100 or so teeth, and now that I think about it, I just assumed the spacing b/t the blade and the brake would be the same. It must no have been. SawStop sent me a brake the second time it happened, I sent the activated brake to them for analysis. I haven't heard anything. They have been very good whenever I have called.

    Then, a couple of times, my JessEm miter fence has nicked the blade. Everything works as advertised.

    None of the activations was for a finger, etc. All could have been averted if I had been more aware of everything.

    I keep a spare cartridge in the shop.
    I own the ICS and the gap check with a change of blades is critical. I found that out when I changed from the sawstop blade to my WWII. I assuemed a 10" blade is a 10" blade and that is not the case! My problem was the opposite My wwII is slightly under 10" where the SS blade is right on 10". It caused too big a gap and would fail the test and not run. I called support and they indicated that gap if too wide is both unsafe, and if too far out of their spec, will disable the system. After I readjusted the gap, which took all of a minute, I was back in business. I called Forrest thinking I had a bad blade, I found that was indeed the way they come The engineer indicated that they had a lots of complaints that some of the smaller saws it caused problems, so to satisfy that issue, they nominally reduced the diameter of the blades to slightly under 10". Again no big deal, I just know to check it each time I change the blade. Only other problem I had was I have a 20 tooth special rip blade from forrest and some times if that blade stops and the sensor is between the big gaps caused by only 20 teeth, it will cause the system to not start thinking the gap is too far apart. I simply rotate the blade a hair and the prob is solved. I don't use it except for 12/4 material and thats not used that much so no big deal.

    So you can see that gap means a lot.

    I'd send that blade back to forrest and get their opinion before chucking it. I've heard of them being able to recover them in some cases. It would not hurt other than the cost to ship it to them.
    Last edited by Keith Hankins; 10-17-2014 at 9:20 AM.

  13. #28
    You bought the saw for its safety benefits - and tossing a damaged blade is just part of the cost.

    On the other hand.. (insert evil grin here) have you considered its advantages in competitive frisbee?

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    731

    It is the Tungsten

    We buy carbide scrap as a consolidator. We buy a coffee can or 30# in a flat rate box. When we have a ton or so we ship it in.
    Refiners typically don't want coffee cans coming in.

    You can crush carbide to make carbide grit. You can also reclaim the tungsten carbide grains from the cobalt binder.

    You can use reclaimed carbide to make new parts. It does not work as well in precision parts such as saw tips. It is just fine in wear parts such as snow plow edges.

    Silver (as in braze alloy that is 50% silver) is expensive but it decreases the value of carbide scrap by about $0.50 per pound.


    Hardfacing Alloy labeled.jpgGrinding Sludge labeled.jpgsaw tips and brazed parts labeled.jpgsolid carbide labeled.jpg
    I'm a Creeker, yes I m.
    I fries my bacon in a wooden pan.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    PALM BAY FL
    Posts
    515
    Turn disaster into kitsch, trip SS enough times and you may be able to turn a profit selling these:

    Sawbell.jpg
    - Beachside Hank
    Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

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