Splitter versus riving knife

[Gerry S. Wojtowicz]

This has been addressed before, but the threads I've read are from a few years ago. Maybe an update is in order.
I have a JET JTWS-10JF table saw. I've had it for 15 years or so and it has performed beautifully. Recently the kickback pawls on the blade guard came loose, so I'm trying to replace the whole guard mechanism, but I can't find an exact replacement anywhere.
So this led me to aftermarket blade guards and the difference between a splitter and and a riving knife.
I can see where a riving knife would be the preferable to a splitter, but I wonder if the aftermarket B-O-R-K system really works as well as their site suggests.
The Shark guards look like an improvement over the guard that came with my table saw.
Here's the thing. Now that I know what a riving knife is and how it works, I wonder just how safe a splitter actually is.
So what I'm looking for here is: feelings on the relative merits of a riving knife over a splitter, and the relative merits of the B-O-R-K versus Shark guards.

I should say I never stand behind the wood when I'm cutting it, I always use a magnetic or miter slot feather board. I always use a pushblock, and my hands are always as far away from the blade as they can be, and I never go near the blade after I push the wood through until the blade has completely stopped.

So I'm as safety conscious as I can be, but I still wonder how safe the splitter is when compared to a riving knife.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

THanks

Gerry

[Cary Falk]

I can't comment on the B.O.R.K because I never owned one. I owned a Shark Guard and it was very nicely made. The owner is a very nice guy. I also owned a Biesemeyer snap in splitter. It was also very nice. All that being said, a riving knife is sooo much nicer to use. I found myself taking out the splitters quite often and not putting them back in even though it only took a few seconds. On the rare occasion that the riving knife comes out, it goes right back in. I sold a non riving knife cabinet saw just to get one that had one.

[David Kumm]

As Cary said, more about convenience than safety. The shark stuff is first rate. My old Whitney has only a splitter and if I'm going back and forth with a dado I use this. As long as the splitter protrudes from the table it doesn't have to stick up as high as the blade. Of course I seldom saw anything but dry wood on a table saw. Even contruction lumber gets the bandsaw.DSCN0003.jpg Dave

[Jim Becker]

The primary advantage to a proper riving knife is that they stay close to the blade no matter what the cut height. That means they are usable for both through and partial depth cuts while still providing the "splitter" safety behind the blade. The biggest issue with the typical "splitters" on North American designed saws prior to retrofit is that they interfered with enough cuts that folks just removed them and stashed them in a box somewhere. (or in the trash) Since riving knives don't interfere with cuts, they tend to stay on the saw with the resultant increase in safety.

I actually have two riving knives for my slider...one sits above the blade height and serves to hold the OEM over-blade guard/dust collection setup. The other is just below blade height. I use the latter 99% of the time, although I know I really should pay more attention to the dust collection above the blade thing...

Specific to your question, a splitter offers a meaningful degree of safety...if it's actually used and used properly. But it's generally only useable for through cuts. (exceptions for shop-built splitters in the table saw insert, but they are generally not as close to the blade as desirable) A riving knife is just the next level up with the advantage of being useable for nearly any type of cut.

[Jim Andrew]

I have a 04 Unisaw, with a shark guard. Have never had a kickback, so consider it a good system. Also have a '13 Hammer sliding tablesaw, with the riving knife and above the saw dust collection. The riving knife is adjustable, so you can adjust the gap between blade and riving knife, and the height of the riving knife separately. Also, the riving knife goes up as you adjust the blade higher, so slightly thicker wood does not bother like it possibly could with the splitter. If you want to spend the money to get a Hammer it has other benefits besides just the riving knife, the slider is a whole new ball game. Crosscutting on a tablesaw with amazing precision. And perfect straight rips. Personally, I did not get the Hammer for the riving knife alone, just an added bonus.

[Gerry S. Wojtowicz]

Thanks to all for your input.
Jim: The Hammer saw looks awesome. But at $4000, a bit beyond my price range.
The riving knife does seem to be a better safety feature, but since my current table saw has a splitter, I'll have to stick with that. I'll look into the **** and see if a retrofit is feasable. I think the Shark is an option for the splitter (sadly, a three month wait time)
As a compromise between a RK and a splitter I was thinking about dedicated ZC inserts (for different blade heights) for the table saw with the Microjig splitters added. I don't know if the table saw splitter would get in the way. http://microjig.com/products/mj-spli...ro/index.shtml

Thanks again for all your input.