newbie needs help with saw evaluation

[Charlie Velasquez]

Hi all,
I am new to the forum and just starting out as a hobbyist.

I inherited some of my dad's tools: 1970's DeWalt Radial Arm Saw, 1970's Craftsman drill press, several routers of various brands and power and my dad's pride and joy, a 1950's metal lathe and milling machine (he was a tool and die maker) - I have done a modicum of woodworking but have never done any metal work; but I can tell you it was really easy to turn uniform diameter walnut dowels for my son's cradle -clamp in a cutter, get it close, dial in .375, flip the traveller lever, and watch it go!

But I digress,
I have made several pieces: the afore mentioned cradle, captain's beds, loft beds and such for my kids, (mmm.. it seems trying to get my kids to go to sleep is some sort of a fixation for me), a trestle table for my mom. But these joints were dowels, screws and plugs and the like, none of these would be described as fine cabinetry. I would like to improve my skills and techniques, but I keep getting the feeling I am taxing the capabilities of the RAS.

I made "Mr. Sawdust"'s table for my RAS, I have read and followed Jon Eakes guide to aligning my RAS, and I get reasonably close tolerances when cutting (maybe <1/64"" off square when crosscutting an 10" board). But I am constantly checking set-up and alignment every time I move the arm or tilt the motor. That is time I could be making sawdust! These tolerances were fine for the type of projects I had before, and I could always touch up my cuts with a plane, but I have been lurking on this site and others for a while and am amazed that the talk is of tolerances of .001" or better. It appears for the kind of accuracy I need for cabinet work, I need a different saw.

Following a newspaper ad I found someone wanting to sell a Jet cabinet saw for $400 with the standard Jet fence. An additional $150 buys an accusquare fence (54" max rip)

The saw is an older JCS-10 (Blue). I looked on the internet and all the JCS-10's are contractor saws, but I copied the model # down myself and this IS a cabinet saw.

I know the motor is a 2hp /230 with NO use (seller had it hooked up to run on hydraulics) I didn't even ask if it was right or left tilt. Someone told me Jet didn't make a left tilt till they changed color to white, but I don't know that to be a fact. I couldn't find anything about this saw on the internet. Does anyone have any information on this saw? A site I could download the manual or specs?
Looked on http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/. They only have newer manuals and such on-line and no mention at all of the older products.

Seems most of the newer machines are 3 hp, left tilt, Beisemeyer fence..,for only a few hundred more.

My budget is VERY tight, (am paying for college for 4 children at once!) and I was saving for a Unisaw or such, but if this is a good deal and could give me the required accuracy, maybe I could buy now and start saving for a jointer and planer.

I have no knowledge of the value of these saws so I look to more experienced minds for help!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Charlie....I'm sure someone here will be able to answer your question. Welcome to the Creek!

[Von Bickley]

Charlie,
Welcome to the creek.
$400 for a Jet cabinet saw sounds pretty good to me. If I was buying it, I would prefer a left tilt but that's my preference.

[Alan Turner]

Welcome to SMC. My thinking on used tools is that if they have been well cared for, and did not come from a factory setting (high mileage and worker abuse), then they are worth a look see. Ask the owner for the history of the saw. A 1995 or so Am. Woodworker mag. shows a blue Jet left tilt, so I think it is poss for it to be left tilt. But, I drive a right tilt Uni, and it is fine with me. I don't do much bevel ripping anyway.

This sounds like it could be a good buy. I would ask the owner to let you test it with some simple cuts. Take your own stock to cut, and be sure it is squared up properly.

Take a good comb. square, and lay its head slightly into the left miter guage groove, and extend the blade so it just touches the front of the blade, and then slide it to the back and see how far it is out (on a cab. saw, the tope is adjustable by 4 bolts under each corner of the table). But before you do this, ask the owner how tight it is. If he says it is great, and your simple test shows it is way out, then take his other comments cum gran salas. He may not know, or may be sliding the truth a bit.

Good luck.

[Paul Canaris]

A 2 HP motor would give me some concern if I were working with thicker hardwoods.
We each approach this differently given our patience and budgets. But, if I were to go back to where I was 25 years ago, just starting out, I would look for a used industrial unit, through e-bay, for sale within driving distance. Sometimes these need nothing more than a good cleaning; and at some point likely a fence upgrade. If your handy, and are willing to put in a little “sweat equity”, you can end up with a TS that puts the jet and most others to shame. The only issue, would be looking for one with a single phase motor, but they are out there, if you take the time and are not in a rush.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

[Bob Boake]

This needs some further inspection. Jet made some cabinet saws that are basically contractor saws in a cabinet body. Performance is the same as a contractor saw in most respects except for dust collection. If the works hang off the table top then it is a contractor type. Unlike others a 2 hp motor doesn't scare me. If it is a contractor type saw IMHO it is a fair price, if it is a true cabinet saw the I would consider it to be a good buy. Unlike some others I stay away from tools that need serious rehab. If you keep shopping you can find an older lightly used tool for not much more than a commercially used 3 phase unit that has been retired from shop use. Just my opinion.

[Charlie Velasquez]

Thanks for all the replies. I know it is difficult to give advice without actually seeing things, but imparting your general knowledge certainly helps give a wider perspective to the decision. I get the general feeling that this is a fair offer for that saw; neither a steal nor overpriced.

There are some points in favor and some against.

It is now up to me to weigh my personal preferences in light of your comments and make the decision. Either way, I appreciate your input.

This forum has a reputation for kind, considerate, and thoughtful responses. I can see that it is well-deserved.

[Mike Cutler]

Charlie. Welcome to Sawmill Creek. I distinctly remember that saw that you are refering to .
The problem that you are running into is that all of Jet's "new" Contractor saws begin with the JCS designator. The Jet contractor saws used to begin with a JWTS designator. I have a "Blue" Jet JWTS-10JF Contractor saw. At the time this was Jet's top of the line contractor grade tablesaw, with the Xacta fence it retailed for about $900.00 in the early to mid 90's.
The JCS 10, or possibly the JWCS 10 came out right after I purchased mine. It was an attempt to bridge the gap between the JWTS-10JF and the large Jet 3HP tablesaw JTAS-10, that was competing with the Delta Unisaw. It retailed for about $150.00 more than mine with all the cast iron wings and the Xacta fence. It is essentuially a "contractor" saw in an enclosed cabinet. The JWTS came with a 1 1/2 HP motor and the JTAS came with a 3HP motor. The JCS 10 came with the 2hp motor as you already pointed out.
If the saw and the table are in good condition, and the table is all cast iron then it could be worth a serious look, especially if the motor is included.
The price of $150.00 for the Accusquare fence seems a bit high to me. It was a middle of the road priced fence when it came out. It certainly wasn't a Beis' but it was a good fence. The $150.00 would go along way towards a real Beismeyer fence. One other thing to consider, is do you have the room for a TS with a 54" fence? That's a lot of floorspace.
Give it a good look, for $400.00 it's certainly worth considering, and once again welcome to Sawmill Creek.
Here is a link to the best manual I could locate. I have the manual in PDF form if the link doesn't work.

www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/M-708435.pdf