Originally Posted by
Steve Friedman
Paul,
I know 2-1/2 years with the Mk II is probably exhausting, but I will make one suggestion that helped me. I still don't use it, but can get a sharp and repeatable edge.
I had three problems with Mk II.
1. The projection setting jig only works if the blade is perfectly square. So, use a square and grind the edge to make sure it's square before even starting.
2. When I place the blade holding jig onto the projection setting jig, I always press the edge of the blade firmly into the corner of the protrusion setting jig. But, as soon as I start tightening the blade holding jig, I find that the edge of the blade started rising out of the corner, so that the blade projection is changing. So, what I need to do is tighten the blade holding jig slowly, while simultaneously pressing the edge of the blade into the corner, so that the edge of the blade is still in the corner when the blade holding jig is fully tightened.
3. Last part is to get your square and check to see if the blade is really square in the blade holding jig. I found that it often wasn't and I needed to give it a few taps to make sure it was square. If you do that, you need to go back to the projection setting jig to make sure the edge of the blade is still in the corner. Otherwise, loosen and adjust.
That process id one of the reasons I stopped using the Mk II. But, if the edge if square to the blade holding jig and the edge touches the inside corner of the projection setting jig, the system should work.
I assume you've already done this, but you should also check to see that the horizontal tool rest is parallel to platter. The booklet has instructions on how to do that. It's pretty easy.
Finally, you do need to let the abrasive do the work, so don't press too hard. The instruction say no to let the blade go past the edge of the platter, but I find that to it's impossible to get an even bevel without doing that. So, I move the blade to the left and right, going part the edge, just being careful to make sure the blade holding jig stays firmly in contact with the horizontal arm. Eventually, you get the feel for how to move the blade across the platter to get a straight bevel. Once you've done that with the 80 grit, the rest of it seems to move pretty quickly.
Hope some of that helps. If not, I tried.
One more thing, which you may already know. The crepe blocks work fine to clean the more abrasive stuff, but they don't work with the finer grits and really gum up the 9 micron sheet. Use a white eraser for the finer grit sheets. Works like a charm.
Steve