What saw blade will i need for cutting veneer on a slider?

[Max Neu]

I recently ordered a MVT (magic veneer trimmer) from Veneer Systems for my slider.I haven't recieved the MVT yet,but I do want to have the proper type of blade on hand,so I am ready to use it when it gets here.I have never used a slider/table saw when working with veneer,so this will be a new experience.I only plan on using raw veneers,no paperback or 2 ply.I typically use 12" blades for my slider,but am willing to use a different size if there is a benefit.Any suggestions and feedback are appreciated.

[Chris Padilla]

I had to look up that MVT you ordered. It looks interesting and I hope you'll post more about it when you get it and use it.

I'm guessing that ripping or crosscutting or "rip-cross" cutting is the same for veneers as it is for anything else like hardwood or plywood. The only thing with veneers is to keep them flat to the table likely with a sacrificial or zero-clearance top/bottom AND to keep them from slipping under the fence. I'm sure your MVT addresses all these issues to get you a clean sharp edge to work with. With that in mind, ripping and crosscut blades should work just fine. Just use good quality sharp blades (like you would normally do) and I think you should be okay. Perhaps the MVT's manual will have some suggestions or ask the folks at Veneer Systems for their thoughts.

Be sure to post back what you find out and I'm VERY curious to hear your thoughts on this jig you got.

[Larry Fox]

Have not had the need to do it on my slider yet but if I were faced with the task of getting a clean cut on a stack of veneers I would likely look to "sandwich" the veneers between sacrificial pieces and use a normal blade. I would think you would be able to get a really good edge that way.

[James Baker SD]

I place a 1/2" sheet of plywood on top, lower the main blade completely under the table and cut veneer with the scoring blade. Works pretty well for me.

[Max Neu]

I had to look up that MVT you ordered. It looks interesting and I hope you'll post more about it when you get it and use it.

I'm guessing that ripping or crosscutting or "rip-cross" cutting is the same for veneers as it is for anything else like hardwood or plywood. The only thing with veneers is to keep them flat to the table likely with a sacrificial or zero-clearance top/bottom AND to keep them from slipping under the fence. I'm sure your MVT addresses all these issues to get you a clean sharp edge to work with. With that in mind, ripping and crosscut blades should work just fine. Just use good quality sharp blades (like you would normally do) and I think you should be okay. Perhaps the MVT's manual will have some suggestions or ask the folks at Veneer Systems for their thoughts.

Be sure to post back what you find out and I'm VERY curious to hear your thoughts on this jig you got.

Chris,
I will report back after I use it,it sounds pretty promising,John from Veneer Systems spoke pretty highly of it.He said it makes perfect edges,and is great for pattern work,like sunbursts,etc.whick is what I have been doing alot of lately.It will be about 3 weeks before I get it,each one is made to fit your saw,they needed to know the width,depth,and distance to saw blade for the slot on the carriage table.I also upgraded my vacume pump with their 10cfm model,and I bought a 4'x10' lift top press from them.I am just as anxious to try the lift top press,it will be nice to stop fumbling around with those bags!

[Chris Padilla]

Wow...you are dropping some large coin on these items! They all look very nice. I would have no room for a permanent fixture like the lift-top press. Bags roll up nicely!!

[Jim Andrew]

You didn't mention what brand your slider is, but I bought some very nice blades for my Hammer from Carbide Processors, the brand is Tenryu. I got a 12" rip blade, a 10" ply blade and 10" solid wood crosscut blade. Am really impressed with the blades, good as any I have ever had.

[Kevin Jenness]

We use a Forrest Hi AT veneer blade for this process,using a shopmade jig similar to what you have ordered. Other blades such as a lower shear angle ATB or triple chip can work as well on well-behaved veneers, but the Forrest has been our go-to blade for veneer work. Ours is a 14", but there is no need to go larger than 12" except for crosscutting thicker panels, you typically want to run it low to prevent tearout at the bottom of the stack, and the stack is not likely to be more than 3/8" above the jig base Other manufacturers make similar blades. Some veneers respond slightly better to routing, but the slider usually does well. A renewable edge at the cut line or a sacrificial layer at the bottom of the stack will help with tearout there. For sunbursts and the like, you should be able to reference an angled line on the jig base. I would be interested to hear some feedback after you have used it for a while.

We have been using fliptop vacuum presses for some years now, a major improvement in convenience. Have fun.

[Peter Quinn]

I used to do something similar with a trac saw on a shop made table, used the same blade I would for cutting veneered plywood. Hi ATB, relatively high tooth count, fine crosscutting type blade. Jig looks interesting, I'm probably much too cheap to pay somebody else to make that for me even if it makes economic sense! Would kill for the fold down top press, truly and in every way better than stuffing a bags for most form work. Love to see pics.