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Thread: Attach face frames to built-in.

  1. #31
    I've been reading this thread with interest because I am preparing to build two large built in's for our home (the first of many cabinetry projects). My wife is my client! I have a question.

    How do you deal with face frame for built-in cabinets against uneven, out of square finished dry wall? My plan was to attach FF later, like Steve, with pin nailer and yellow glue; fitting each piece of FF to the location and it's corresponding dry wall section.

    Steve, I am not trying to hi-jack your thread, which is helpful to me, who is coming up with similar situation as you.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Wakahisa Shinta View Post
    I've been reading this thread with interest because I am preparing to build two large built in's for our home (the first of many cabinetry projects). My wife is my client! I have a question.

    How do you deal with face frame for built-in cabinets against uneven, out of square finished dry wall? My plan was to attach FF later, like Steve, with pin nailer and yellow glue; fitting each piece of FF to the location and it's corresponding dry wall section.

    Steve, I am not trying to hi-jack your thread, which is helpful to me, who is coming up with similar situation as you.
    You would simply need to plan for this in your design of the unit and allowing for a bit of extra material for a scribe on those ends that will require it. Just an overhang of whatever amount is required to allow you to scribe and then sand/plane the FF to to wall. 1/2" is usually more than adequate. We then back bevel that FF so there is less material to remove when you do scribe it into place.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    Posts
    975
    Quick update: I went the pocket hole route. I was able to take down one of the bookcases and then move the other ones around on the counter. That allowed me to drill pocket holes on the hidden parts of the sides and attach the stiles that way. I also drilled pocket holes for attaching the rail at the top but haven't yet had the chance to attach that.

    Thanks for the help everyone!
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  4. #34
    What about hot hide glue? once it sets (fast) it doesn't need clamping, and setup with an old crockpot is cheap ($1.00 at a Salvation Army store). ? Never actually did this, but would be interested in hearing comments as that's what I was planning to do with the scribe-strip on the built-ins I'm working on.

    Philip
    "Men never commit evil so fully and joyfully as when they do it for religious convictions"- Pascal, 1623-1662

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Wapakoneta,Ohio
    Posts
    427
    Quote Originally Posted by Philip Berman View Post
    What about hot hide glue? once it sets (fast) it doesn't need clamping, and setup with an old crockpot is cheap ($1.00 at a Salvation Army store). ? Never actually did this, but would be interested in hearing comments as that's what I was planning to do with the scribe-strip on the built-ins I'm working on.

    Philip
    Philip,
    I think it would be difficult to do a rub joint with something that big, you only have a few seconds.If it doesn't work out, you will have quite a mess scraping off all the hide glue.

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