What do I need for saw sharpening?

[Stewie Simpson]

Here we go Harold. Take your pick.

http://www.blackburntools.com/articl...tes/index.html

http://www.oocities.org/plybench/saw_teeth.pdf

[Casey Gooding]

I can't add too much to what has already been said. Retoothing is a real pain unless you have a retoother. Not that plenty of people don't have great luck with it, but I'm not getting rid of my retoother any time soon.
I would say the hardest thing to find is good files. The Mexican Stanley files are too soft. I've had the teeth fold over after just two passes. Grobet is a definite improvement, though I find them very brittle. The teeth tend to break off rather than fold. I asked Lee Valley customer service about that, and they basically said I was doing it wrong (I've talked to too many other people who've had the same problem and used too many other files where I didn't have that problem).
For me, that's the hardest part.

[Stewie Simpson]

For above 10tpi these are hard to beat for quality.

http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/vall...re-p-1149.html

[Jim Matthews]

You can make an acceptable saw vise from ripped plywood.
It needs to have an inverted "L" profile to fit into your leg vise.

Glue on a strip of non-slip drawer liner, if you need more grip.
I recommend belt leather, if you have it - it should last longer.

Some join the assembly at the bottom with a fabric strip or
piano hinge, so it can't shift when you're clamping it down.

Good lighting makes a huge difference in what I can, and can't see.
Most dovetail saws will be in the 12 TPI or finer range.

9 TPI is pretty coarse.

For teeth that small, a magnifying headset is a help.

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/wwsawvice.html

http://norsewoodsmith.com/node/57