Presume those are like scotchbrite? Like a plastic matrix with abrasive in it?
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Presume those are like scotchbrite? Like a plastic matrix with abrasive in it?
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It would be OK to have the chisel held downward angle though, right? So that the brushing action is from the body toward the tip. Of course this would tend to dub the cutting edge if not careful.Originally Posted by george wilson
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Yes,always hold downwards any edge that could be grabbed by the wheel. When you are buffing the socket end,hold it downwards too. However,I still don't advocate buffing. You just can't keep a crisp surface by buffing. Corners get dubbed over,including the corners of bevels.
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I think it's Golfworks that sells some pretty interesting wheels, as well as sanding belts, for polishing metal on golf club heads. I've polished the tops of chisels on a 10" buffer, but the backs, and little edges that meet the back, are quickly polished on diamond lapping film if you flatten them on some thing else to the point that you can start on the lapping film. I usually just polish the cutting edge of the back, no more than is comfortable to hold on the lapping film on a plate, and it does an amazingly fast job with that.
http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp...eel_A_c2p_E_cs
Last edited by Tom M King; 12-12-2014 at 4:02 PM.
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Amazing, there was a golf club bending machine on that site:
They want about $1300 for that thing.
When I was a caddy, most golfers just used a tree or their knee to bend their golf clubs...
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Mine is one of the old ones, that works great, but doesn't look as fancy as the newer ones. I bought it off of Craigslist.
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Tommy Bolt would just tie it in a knot and throw it in the water hazard.
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Just another example of the death of hand skills. Everybody's gotta have power tools now to do the slightest little thing.
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The bending is done by hand. A "machine" is really just a fancy clamp, that holds the head in exact position, without damaging it, and it has a couple of devices to measure angles. The bending is done by hand with a bar that fits on the hosel of the club head. The "machine" just tells you what the starting point is, and shows you where you end up. It does require a bit of hand skill. The club has to be strong enough to be able to hit a ball well over 100 mph and not bend, but still be bendable with one of these "machines" to fit an individuals physique and swing. It takes quite a bit of force to bend one, but still takes fine control to not bend it too much, and be able to stop at the right half degree.
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Hi Dave
Possibly a plastic base. Not sure. When I think Scotchbrite I think a coarse brown-red wheel used for paint removal. The deburring wheels are not at all like that. There are a wide range of grits and degrees of hardness, much like a grinding wheel. Softer is best at the finest level as it will conform better to the existing surface.
They really work well. The ultra fine ones will take rust off and leave a mirror finish. I use these wheels a lot, and have done so for many years. They are fantastic for nuts and bolts, smoothing and polishing screw and bolt heads, round shafts, etc. I would avoid using them on the back of a chisel - that should always be lapped by hand on a flat surface - however I will remove spots of rust with a judicious touch.
Again, I am surprised that no one else here has mentioned them with the enthusiasm I have. You must rsearch them and purchase a couple. It is possible to find sellers on eBay who are getting rid of wheels when they reach a certain size. For example, they sell their 10" wheel when it reaches 8". I bought a bunch cheaply this way many years ago.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Contributor
Member
Every day I learn something new. My first lesson today is vocabulary; I'd never heard the term "hosel" before. Now I have to figure out how to use it in a sentence today, when no one in my family or my immediate circle of friends plays golf.
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Yes - does. I have tried to straighten a putter of mine using my workbench and length of pipe but it takes so much force I'm afraid that I'll break the darn thing. I think if I torch it with my propane torch and then bend it the job will be a lot less stressful. I don't want to break a $150 putter
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Dick's Sporting Goods stores have a putter bending machine in the store in the golf section. A putter won't fit in the clamp in a regular club bending machine. The last time I was in one of those stores, they got 15 bucks to bend a putter like you want it. You can keep playing with it in the store until you get it like you want it at address for the one fee.
I wouldn't heat it to bend it. The epoxy holding the shaft on the head will melt. It needs to be a pretty precise bend. If you bend it one way, without the bending machine, it will probably also change in the other plane. Some putters can't be bent, without bending the shaft, because they don't have a hosel.
A putter bends a lot easier than an iron, especially a cast iron, so it takes less skill in the feel needed for using the bending "machine".
Last edited by Tom M King; 12-15-2014 at 8:56 AM.
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Thanks for the tip Tom. I'll go check that out
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