Dining table plans

[Brad Lehman252]

I am starting my first big project and would love some input from the fine folks here on my design. The table will measure ~96 x 50. I am hoping to seat 12 reasonably comfortably. Thinking of ash or maybe cherry if I can afford it(still waiting on quote from lumber yard).

I threw together a 'proof of concept' out of 2x4s and plywood to be sure it fit in my room and that there were no weird issues with my leg design:
image.jpg
image.jpg(8/4 x 7 inch legs set on a 45 with fairly typical skirt/corner block for support)

I am struggling with 2 things, first, the legs, most dining tables have removable legs, how necessary is that? I know the table will fit into and out of my current dining room assembled. Any thoughts on how to make my legs removable?

Second, top attachment, I know I need to allow for movement, and I suspect with this much width there will be a lot of movement. I was thinking of using the little metal clips, but it am not sure they provide enough movement for my width when placed perpendicular to the grain (into the long skirt). So I was thinking of only using them in the short skirt boards and a center (or 2?) crossmember. Does that sound sufficient? Maybe 4 in each? Also, should I anchor in the middle somehow (pocket screw)?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts, and feel free to comment on anything else that may be amiss.

Brad

[Kent A Bathurst]

Removable legs: Google table leg corner braces. Look at the photos. You will see a lot of options/ideas.

Top attachment:
1. Yeah - the clips on the side rails won't do much for you. I put 2 or 3 in each end rail on a recent dining table.
2. I put 2 stretchers between the long side rails, with a saw kerf cut down one side of each. Then, 2 - 3 of the Z-clips on each to atach the top securely.

FWIW - removing the legs matters only when moving the table. YOu can do that, or you canjust hire some muscle.

On my table - the base is an assembled unit - legs don't come off. The top comes off [via the Z-clip screws] if needed. The entire thing is QSWO, so that 5/4 44" x 86" top is pretty heavy. I had it apart to move it ot the client's house simple because of the weight. And - the client lived 2 doors away, so I conned him and another neighbor into carrying the 2 sections over. I supervised.

[Gene Davis]

I think 50 is too broad. Consider 44 as your maximum.

Try 48 using a piece of plywood. Sit at one side and pass the butter to someone opposite. Now imagine it spread 2" further.

Inches matter.

[David Hawxhurst]

figure ~24" per person to seat 12 comfortably you'll need to extend the length to around 108-110". the max recommended with is usually no more than 48" and closer to 44-46" is preferred. my current temp table top is 48" x 96" will seat 10 comfortably and 12 with a slight squeeze but not uncomfortably close. the final top will be 108"ish by 46-48" width so that we can seat 12 comfortably and 14-16 if we squeeze.

[Gene Davis]

I am finishing one up right now that is 44 x 78 closed, and with the two 18 inch leaves, extends to 114 for the seating for eight. Three each side and one on each end. Tried and true. A copy of the trestle-based Stickley "Highlands" table, with equalizer slides. Leaves store under top.

[Prashun Patel]

Knockdown legs may be more prevalent in commercial tables because they're easier to transport and repair.

On the tables I've built, I usually connect the legs to the aprons permanently.

To connect the top, I find the the little clips more appropriate for smaller tables. On anything wide, I prefer battens between the aprons (parallel to the line of of expansion) flush with the table top. I elongate the mounting holes as you move out to the edge.

[Tom Scott]

I think it will be hard to get 12 around a table of that size. The photo below is of a table I built earlier this year. It is 109"x42" and seats 10 comfortably. Could go more on the sides with slightly smaller chairs or a bench.
I did not make the legs removable, but the tops is connected with traditional buttons to make moving easier.

[Brian Holcombe]

24" per person is pretty good, 26" if you can afford it. If you plan to have two people on each of the ends, add 16" to each end so that the place settings do not overlap.

If you like traditional place settings and serving pieces it's nice to have a little room, contemporary place settings do not require as much space.

44-46" wide is good.