Harvesting Burl Wood

[Matthew N. Masail]

I live near a forest, so sometimes I go down to look for fallen branches and stuff. mainly there are 2 types of trees there - pine and olive. needless to say it's the olive I look for !


the other day I came across a huge, maybe about 20X20 inches, olive root section disconnected from the tree. I have no idea how it became disconnected, but the forest preservation guys often cut off branches and stuff so it might be them. in any case I was wondering how one might harvest something like that. I was thinking to try and get a chain-saw and cut a cube, or several cubes out of it.


any advice?


Thanks.

[Brian Holcombe]

I have no advice, but I do want to see pictures of the result

[Bill Houghton]

Root sections can be hell on chainsaws - the chain is expert at finding stones, grit, etc. tucked into the folds of the root ball. So, yes, you can do it, but expect to do a lot of sharpening and meditative breathing or cursing, depending on your inclinations.

The root stock in some trees is kind of spongy; in others, it's incredibly fine wood. No way to know until you open it up.

[Matthew N. Masail]

well I don't own a chine saw, but I've decided to try and harvest as much wood as I can so maybe it's worth buying one. is a chain-saw prone to kick-back or anything like that?

[Matthew N. Masail]

I have no advice, but I do want to see pictures of the result

will do. I'll try to post a pic of the end-grain of the "regular" wood I found. mostly small pieces but the wood is amazing..

[Jim Koepke]

well I don't own a chine saw, but I've decided to try and harvest as much wood as I can so maybe it's worth buying one. is a chain-saw prone to kick-back or anything like that?

Yes, chain saws can kick back. My chain saw has a brake on the hand bar so if the saw kicks back the blade is locked. Could still get a nasty bonk on the head.

Just like a table saw it is advisable to stand to the side of the chain saw so incase it does kick back it will not hit any part of the operator's body.

Hard hat and face shield are also advised.

jtk

[Paul Sidener]

If you use a chainsaw, just assume the chain will need to sharpen the chain afterwards. Putting the chain into the soil dulls it very fast. Get chaps as well. Good luck.

[Matthew N. Masail]

What is Chaps?

I'm looking at electrical chain saws, any recommendations as to motor size\brand\features to look for?

[Jim Koepke]

What is Chaps?

I'm looking at electrical chain saws, any recommendations as to motor size\brand\features to look for?

Chaps (usually pronounced shaps) are the leg covers used by ranch hands to protect their legs while riding through chaparral, (were the name originates and why it starts with the sh sound), tangled thorny bush of the western United States. There are specific ones available for use with a chain saw. They will help to prevent accidental leg amputation.

Do you have a real long extension cord? My knowledge of the battery powered chainsaws is nonexistent.

As to brand, when my chainsaw was purchased all the loggers around here used Stihl brand chain saws. Figured if those who live by their saws use them they were likely good enough for me.

As someone suggested if you are cutting into roots or near the ground your chain will suffer. A sharpening kit for the shop and a few extra chains in the field may be your best investment after the saw.

jtk

[Paul Sidener]

What is Chaps?

I'm looking at electrical chain saws, any recommendations as to motor size\brand\features to look for?

I don't think chaps work with electric chainsaws. Chaps are designed to stop the chain, if it contacts your leg. Get the largest motor and bar you can. Electric saws aren't very big or strong. You wound be better off with a gas one with a 14 inch bar. I use Stihl saws at every day work, they are worth the money. I can't really help with electric saws.

[Stan Calow]

you can rent one

[Chris Hachet]

you can rent one

This would be my thought on the matter

[Alan Rutherford]

you can rent one

That brings back memories. Long time ago I wanted the keel of my sailboat to be lighter. With a rented chainsaw I cut a rectangular window all the way through the keel and cut the resulting chunk of lead into two pieces of about 600 pounds each. The lead was not hard on the chainsaw and I got it back clean and sharp within a 2-hour rental. Dirt might not be so forgiving.

(For anyone who is interested, I filled the resulting hole with foam and glassed over it so the profile was unchanged, but removing 1200 pounds from the ballast of a 16,000 pound sailboat is pretty drastic. Less would have been better.)

[Kees Heiden]

Is chainsawing lead a good idea?

Matthew, can't you use an axe? Makes a lot less noise and might not attract the foresters.

[Matthew N. Masail]

I should clarify - I do not under any circumstance cut down part of a tree that is still connected to the tree! I look for fallen\cut branches only. I do not think it's ok to "steal" from a protected forest.


Plus, you guys scared me with this "accidental amputation" thing.... I guess I should rent one (great idea thanks stan) and see how I feel using it.
I have a tiny little axe.... it would take me about 2 days and jar of elbow grease to cut that thing down... plus I plan on working a lot of branches. I've used my band saw for smaller pieces but wet wood is a pain to work with. how capable would a big axe be?