That sounds like a good thing! Looking to seeing pics of your band saw.
Member
That sounds like a good thing! Looking to seeing pics of your band saw.
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks for the suggestion, Jim. What I've done is rent a truck with a lift gate so I'll be able to get them into (and out of) the truck easier. I had originally thought of renting a UHaul truck with a ramp but the lift gate will make things easier and safer.Originally Posted by Jim Becker
The rental wasn't too bad - $40/day for the truck and $0.49/mile. It's going to be about 80 miles round trip so the total cost should be under $100. I'll have to pay my helper but that shouldn't be more than $50 or $60, depending on how long it takes us. At my age, I really want a strong helper - I don't want to try to wrestle that stuff by myself.
I pick the truck up Sunday morning.
I'll take pictures. I especially want to take a few pictures of the place where the tools are being stored.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Member
Wish you were in Michigan I have a nice trailer and want a unisaw!
Contributor
Me too, Good for you, sounds like everyone is pleased with the deal!
[OP]
Contributor
Hey, this is a great time of year to come to southern California. We're supposed to have 80 degrees tomorrow. Of course, that's a bit unusual, but the winter is not cold here.
But let's see if I get the Unisaw - she could change her mind. And it needs some cleaning up.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Moderator
The lift-gate rental is a great decision, for sure!
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Contributor
Went and picked up the band saw and the Unisaw this morning. Here are some pictures:
Here's the band saw in her garage.
Bandsaw01.jpg
And the Unisaw in the garage:
Unisaw01.jpg
And here's the lift gate truck I rented. The saws are already loaded. There was a lot of other stuff that went along with the tools that we're adding now;
Bandsaw02.jpg
We made it home safely and here's the Unisaw in my shop:
Unisaw02.jpg
And the band saw in my shop.
Bandsaw03.jpg
What I wanted was the bandsaw - the Unisaw was a bonus. I'll have to start cleaning them up and I need to run a 30 amp circuit for the bandsaw.
The Unisaw is a 5HP model. Don't know much else about it right now.
I'm glad to get this done - I was worried that they'd be too heavy (especially the bandsaw) but the move went pretty well.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Contributor
That MM20 looks practically un-used. Just hit that table with a Scotchbrite and it will probably be good-to-go.
Erik Loza
Minimax USA
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks, Erik. You're right, the saw doesn't look very used. I think the guy bought it shortly before he passed away. Would you recommend that I put the Scotchbright on a random orbital sander? Should I use any oil or other materials, maybe Bartender's friend, with the Scotchbright?
Any advice will be appreciated.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Contributor
Yes, green or gray Scotchbrite on an RO sander. Flood the table with some cutting fluid like kerosene, diesel fuel, or WD-40, then get at it with the sander. Ditto on the cast iron fence (both sides) as well. Then strip the table with some mineral spirits or denatured alcohol and it will be ready for paste wax.
Your saw looks like an earlier one that had the cast table trunion. Depending on how long it has sat, the levels of rust may vary throughout the saw but it all can be dealt with with elbow grease. On MM bandsaws that have sat for long persiods of time, here is my checklist:
1.) Make sure machine powers up. If necessary, lube main switch armature with some electrical contact cleaner or WD-40. The AEG switches we used to use were notoriously fussy or sticky if they sat for long periods.
2.) Inspect drive belt to see if it is glazed or hs taken a set and replace if need be. Relacement belts either from us at Parts Pronto or Grainger, et al.
3.) Inspect Euro blade guides for gum or pitch and soak in mineral spirits if need be.
4.) Check guidpost for free up and down movement. Apply dry film lube (preferred) or white lithium (as little as necessary) to post if required. Clean drive chain with toothbrush and mineral spirits if need be.
5.) Check telescopic blade guard for free up and down movement. These are notorious for getting surface rust since they are just raw, stamped sheet metal. You may need to unbolt it from the saw (easy) and get at it with a up brush on a drill or possibly a scothbrite ball on a dremel tool.
That's the basic stuff. Good luck!
Erik Loza
Minimax USA
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks for the detailed suggestions. I won't be able to get started on it until late this week (because of other commitments) but I'll post when I get it cleaned up.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Member
Sweet machines, congratulations!
Moderator
That's one sweet bandsaw, Mike. Congrats! And Erik is spot-on with his checklist!
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Contributor
Erik - your PM mailbox is full and not accepting new messages.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Contributor
Mike, it's fixed.
Erik Loza
Minimax USA
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