How to crosscut a miter on a wide, long, thick part

[Ray Newman]

As others posted utilize a radial arm saw. Or, would a Sliding Miter Saw work? If you have access to either, I think I would first make a "rough" cut, then a "finish" cut.

[Mike McCann]

how about a 45 degree router bit in handheld router

[Mark Bolton]

As others posted utilize a radial arm saw. Or, would a Sliding Miter Saw work? If you have access to either, I think I would first make a "rough" cut, then a "finish" cut.

I dont think there is any slider (SCMS) out there that will make a 12" bevel cut in 2" thick solids that will be furniture grade clean. They all seem to make a hollow cut (concave) in a single pass, and a convex cut (bowed in the middle) in a cleanup/light cut. There is just too much flex in the system for a cut on two parts that wide and that thick that will mate flawlessly.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

borrow a festool

[Derek Arita]

Festool Carvex is supposed to be able to do the job when used on a track.

[Andrew Hughes]

I'm pretty sure my bosch scms, will make that cut.It also helps to have a good blade.

[Dan Hahr]

That's funny. 20-30 years ago everyone would have said RAS. I don't have one but a good one would make that cut easily. Dan

[Mark Bolton]

Regardless of coulda-shoulda-woulda's, or what would have been said when, the OP is asking how to make the cut with the tools he has.

[Dan Hahr]

No he isn't. He's asking for ideas.

"Any better ideas for mitering the ends of the seat?"

[Mark Bolton]

No he isn't. He's asking for ideas.

"Any better ideas for mitering the ends of the seat?"

Oh... well then my vote is to track down either a new or used fully computerized Altendorf 10' slider. Tell the customer there will be a bit of a delay then get a contractor working on an addition to the shop.

;-)

[Mike Null]

The RAS is the tool for the job.

[Brian W Smith]

One way of looking at this is whether you want it as a single machining effort....or two.Obviously a single will be faster but if that involves some sort of $$ outlay,then it may not work out.A two step approach and you could use a chainsaw(kidding),then on to a more accurate finishing step.Just something we'd consider here,Good luck.

[Matt Day]

Prashun, do you have a RAS? If not you should've able to find a decent Dewalt on CL for under $150.

At any rate, if you go this route my experience has been you should do it in one cut, not a "rough cut and finish cut". The blade needs to be fully supported on both sides by the wood or it will flex and your cut won't be true.

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks for all the responses. I experimented with a Neander method to shoot the edge. Most bevel/ramp/donkey-ear shooting boards have the plane running flat, and the piece held at an angle. I'm sure someone out there has thought to reverse it so the piece lays flat, and the plane runs on a bevel. I tried a proof of concept this morning, and I think it'll work. I ripped a bevel on a 3x3 piece of scrap to act as the guide. Then I planed it roughly free hand. Then I cleaned it up against the ramp.

Let's see how it goes for real.

I just need to elevate the piece 1/4" (like all shooting boards) to accommodate the gap between the blade corner and the plane side. I may have to glue a little lip on the bottom of the ramp to allow the end of the seat to register squarely against the ramp.

My seat is extra long currently to allow for a couple different trials (and errors!)

Thanks again.

[Mark Bolton]

I assumed you were talking end grain? Looks like your test is edge.