Running Air Compressor Line

[Dave Lehnert]

I just ran regular rubber air hose.

[Jim Andrew]

I used to have rubber air hose, when I built on the storage room, moved the compressor in there to get rid of the noise, and one of my neighbors had built a new shop and used the maxline from Rapidair, no leaks and a nice setup, so used that. Only I used 1/2". Plenty for my application. I like the little valves built into the system for draining off water.

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

Whatever I would run it would be under ground at least 8 to 10 inches.

[Gary Petit]

Ya I have pondered on what type of material I will use. I figured black pipe is best for my situation. I do not see it rusting out in my lifetime. I don't know, cost effective, and best suits what I will be using it for. I have researched a lot about the new maxline product from Rapidair and seems like good product, but trying to be as cost effective as possible.

[Justin Ludwig]

I just ran regular rubber air hose.

+1

I kept it cheap and simple. Ran 3/8 air hose and set up some manifolds with quick connects. Cheap, dirty, and effective.

[Mike Cutler]

Dan.

I don't understand why folks would go to the trouble of gluing or soldering pipe to install an air system in their workshop. It might save a few bucks, but routing around conduit, lighting, corners, etc with a glued/soldered solution seems like a major hassle.

Dan

The best answer I can give you is that it is readily expandable.
I don't think running copper would be any cheaper than either Maxline, or Rapid Air.
If you ever need to modify a copper pipe system, the materials that you need are readily available. Not cheap though.

[Chris Ainsley]

I went with threaded sch 40 black pipe for my air system. A 3/4" main line with 1/2" drops.
That said I'm still working on finishing my shop and haven't put the air to it yet.

[roger wiegand]

+1 on copper. Easy to install, easy to extend as required, does not require any expensive installation tools, resistant to impact.

[Dan Clark]

Dan

The best answer I can give you is that it is readily expandable.
I don't think running copper would be any cheaper than either Maxline, or Rapid Air.
If you ever need to modify a copper pipe system, the materials that you need are readily available. Not cheap though.

Mike,

Hi. I agree about copper pipe being readily available at your local BORG to extend your system. And if I was running it underground, I'd use copper tubing in some form of conduit. For something like Maxline or Rapid Air, you'd need to reorder if you did not have extra line and connection parts. That's a consideration.

That said, I disagree about ease of installation. I've installed a fair amount of copper pipe. (I use MAPP gas instead of propane for speed.) For a simple installation, it would probably be OK. Sweating a copper joint is fairly easy if it's out in the open and supported away from materials that will burn.

OTOH, if the installation requires running it around obstacles like beams and conduit, then it won't be easy unless you're good at it. I've done that, but will never do it again it it can be avoided.

You're left with two options:

1. Cutting, dry-fitting, and temporarily installing the entire system to ensure that it fits. Then disassembling the system, trying to get it aligned perfectly on the ground, sweating joints, and then installing the system permanently. This would be a major headache if the installation was complex.

Or...

2. Cutting, dry-fitting, and permanently installing the entire system to ensure that it fits. THEN sweat the joints. If you're soldering pipe installed against wood or drywall, and it's over your head (like ceiling or top of wall), then the fun begins. You have to protect the wood/drywall with a shield. Then you have to ensure that hot solder does not drip down on you or something valuable (you, shelving, tools, cars, etc.) And of course you need a spray bottle full of water and a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

To avoid headaches, I ordered the Rapidair 90500 Master Kit (http://www.amazon.com/Rapidair-90500...words=rapidair) from Amazon for $78.02. The price has been bouncing around. It was $99.95 a week or so ago.

To expand the system, an extra 100 feet of 1/2" tubing is $50. Extra connection fittings are between $4.00 and $6.00. Not cheap, but not appreciably more expensive than copper piping.

If anyone is interested, I'll report back (with pics) on how the installation went.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s. I've had joists catch fire (small) while sweating difficult copper joints. Not a big deal; just spray them with water from a spray bottle. That is, except for one instance, where I had to spray about 1/2 a bottle of water to get the fire out. And one time, a 1/2" dollop of hot solder dripped on the back of my hand. It created a nice third degree burn before I could shake it off.

[Lee Reep]

I installed PVC about 30 years ago, before hearing about fracturing issues. It all came out a few years ago. I installed a Rapid Air system, or at least part of it. I'm really sold on it -- no leaks, easy to install, and easy to add-on as needed.

I have a lot of the kit left, and plan to add the remaining distribution outlets this year, but house remodeling projects just seem to get in the way. (You know, your spouse wants them done ...)

My shop is in my basement so routing the pipe overhead is simple.

[John Huds0n]

I read this on another forum this morning:

At work today had an PVC air line explode. Was washing the ceiling bumped the air line and POW it blows up

Very light tap. We took down about 20' of PVC pipe. Broke it up into small pieces with a hammer very easily just a small hit shattered it

1_zps44ybxiwb.jpg

[Steve Milito]

I used 3/4" maxline. It was way easier than copper. The tubing itself is much less expensive than copper but the fittings are expensive. I think it's a wash for typical installations. It's a lot easier to work with unless your a plumber.