Question about tear out in really dry butternut

[Paul Williams]

Many years ago I used to carve decoys. I purchased butternut and basswood in 5 to 10 inch by 4 inch kiln dried planks 8 feet long. I have some left over pieces in my garage. The basswood appears to work fairly well, but the butternut has a lot of tear out between the harder grain lines. It weights almost nothing. The wood has to be at least 20 years old. So here is the question, do I turn slightly oversized, coat it with something and then return, or do I sand the last 1/16 inch to avoid the tear out? Yes I know sharp tools and light cuts. That did help, but I am not able to get a tear out free bowl that way. The wood is beautiful so I don't want to toss it, but sanding isn't really my thing either. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

[Joe Herrmann]

Butternut is extremely difficult to turn without tearout. You are on the right track with sharp tools and light cuts. In addition, I would suggest applying some oil (Watco, BLO) to the offending areas, let it soak in for a bit and then take a light cut. Continue doing that until you get the best surface you can. I once turned a spalted maple bowl that was extremely punky using this method and it came out great. I bet I used almost a pint of oil on it but it was well work it. Fortunately, oil is the first step in my finishing process so it caused no harm.

[guy laizure]

you can apply a couple of coats of thinned lacquer,let dry and then make you final cut.

[John Thorson]

I've turned a lot of butternut and love it. I have two suggestions (1) grind off the 'back bevel' and check how hard you are rubbing the bevel and (2) try slowing down the lathe and taking a slower cut light cut with your sharp tools. Although most woods cut better at higher RPM some of the light and easily torn woods I find turn better at slower than 'normal' speeds. On the bevel rubbing topic, if you are getting a burnish line you may be tearing at the wood with your pressure or the 'back bevel' if the problem is on the inside surface.

[Paul Williams]

Thanks guys, I have about 4 feet of a 4x7 piece left so I will try your ideas. I did get a burnish line on the inside of the last bowl I turned, so I will watch carefully what I am doing about rubbing the bevel. This stuff is so dry that a small bowl with 3/16 wall almost floats on air.

[John Keeton]

Butternut is somewhat light in weight, but from your comments it sounds a lot like there is some decomposition going on and that could account for some of the tear out.

[Paul Williams]

John, I believe that to be true. Here is a shot at my latest attempt, still in finishing process. This thing can really soak up the BLO and shellac. The tear out can be seen in the end grain in the lower third of the bowl. There is quite a bit more on the inside, also in the end grain.

butternut bowl 12-14.jpg

[Reed Gray]

I have had minimal experience with butternut, but what I had (fresh cut) did leave a very fuzzy surface. Best ways to cut down on tear out are sharp tools, a high shear angle, wetting the wood, and very light cuts.

robo hippy