Looking for feedback on a (for me) large project

[Lee Ludden]

I have been asked to build basically a portable (movable) desk for my church. My constraints are that the width and depth both be a multiple of 31". We want to be able to move it, but not have any visible casters from the 'public' side.

Here is what I have so far.
Palmers Usher Desk - V2.jpg

The overall desk is 124" wide and 31" deep (it says 32, but it is really 31). Basically what I am doing is building a pair of kitchen cabinets 62" wide (1 door and 4 drawers in each) and fastening them together to make a single large cabinet, and then putting the top on it and a skirt around 3 sides to hide the casters. The two outer casters on the side visible here will be double locking 3" casters. The middle pair will be non-swivel, non-locking casters, and the other 2 will be non-locking swivel casters.

I have the casters placed directly under the plywood dividers between the two units and between the drawers and the shelving. I think they need to be there to prevent the bottom from bowing over time. I am not sure though how stable it will be with that much overhang if I leave the casters 31" in from each side.

I will be building this all out of 3/4" oak plywood, using 6mm Dominos and pocket screws to assemble the carcass. Final assembly will take place on site. I am strictly a hobbyist and would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks for your time
Lee

[Bob Cooper]

30" wide doors are pretty big. You might want a pair of smaller ones with no divider between them

[Bill Orbine]

Think about the swivel casters on the "public" side hidden behind the skirt... You'll need to place 'em inboard enough so that it don't "swing" into the skirt when the cabinet is rotated. I'd go with a two or four more non-locking casters. Either one more at each end in the center or two each end on both corners. Keep the skirts off the floor (how much depends on whether floor is carpeted or not). Finally, make sure the drawers and doors stay close when cabinet is in transit.

One more thought..... ALL the casters should be swivel casters (locking or not). I think the cabinet will be easier to "turn" the corner if any.

[Scott Ticknor]

Here`s something to consider ; generally there would be a place for a chair to slide under for seating. Pull a chair up to your kitchen table, sit in the chair with your toes in line with the edge of the table. Now reach out and put your elbows on the table , it`s not super comfortable as a work station .A person in a wheelchair has it even worse.

[Lee Schierer]

We used to have a console type television and it was difficult to move. I flipped it over and added four swivel casters under it so that the cabinet base was about 3/8" up off the floor. On bare floor you could see the 3/8" but could not see the casters. On carpeting you didn't even see the 3/8" gap.

I made a similar desk/work table for a local artist that does quilting. I put swivel casters under it so he could move it around his studio. It was built from birch plywood and assembled with pocket hole screws. I had to disassemble it to get it into his basement studio. Mine was a bit smaller than what you propose. The one I made measured 72 x 30 wide x 37 high. The back side had a leaf that folded up to be a drafting table or a work surface. With the leaf in the up position it is 60 x 72.
craft_table4.jpg
craft_table3.jpg
craft_table2.jpg

[Lee Ludden]

Bill, Good thought on the doors. I'll make that change and make all the casters swivel.

It won't be a desk that anyone is sitting behind. It will be used to give some of the greeters/ushers a place to stand where people and hand out pamphlets and whatever. The floor is all level concrete, so I won't need much clearance below the skirts.

[Scott Brandstetter]

One other thing I will add is in regards to the casters. I would give consideration to the flooring material that this desk will be moved on. I would also consider the weight and make sure to get the right type casters so the unit moves easy and smoothly. Good luck with your build and post some pictures as you go through the process.

[Mark Woodmark]

I would install the casters to a piece of solid hardwood instead of plywood if attaching them with wood/ sheet metal type screws. If I was to install them to the plywood, I would drill through holes and attach them with bolts/ machine screws and nuts

[Mark Woodmark]

"30" wide doors are pretty big. You might want a pair of smaller ones with no divider between them."

I would agree, if they do need to be that wide, you could install an additional center hinge. That said there is a theory that this center hinge does little as most the doors weight is supported by the top and bottom hinges.....the top hinge being pulled down by the door weight causing the bottom hinge to be pushed on by this situation. A continuous hinge sometimes referred to as a piano hinge should solve this wide door issue

I have seen quite a few kitchen cabinet doors that were wider than they were tall that were sagging down at the side without hinges and wondered if this is due more to the fact the hinges were too close together or because the doors were wider that they were tall or both. Since almost all the doors I have seen like this were above say a refrigerator and were obviously very short in height, I am led to believe this problem is related to how close the hinges are to each other.

[Jim Matthews]

Must it always be this size?

If it were modular, and the components locked together
it would be easier to move around.

Something this large on casters may span different
heights on a floor, particularly in older buildings.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Must it always be this size?

If it were modular, and the components locked together
it would be easier to move around.

Something this large on casters may span different
heights on a floor, particularly in older buildings.

I had similar thoughts. When you say it must be movable, do you mean by one person .. very often ? ..Otherwise, it could be made in sections that two people can easily move, even when full of stuff, with a removable single top that could be set off, also by two people, which would be useful for locking it all together. You could eliminate all the casters and have stable components.

[Lee Ludden]

The size is pretty much determined by what the Pastor wants to use for the top - two sheets of double pane safety glass that are each about 38" x 62", and the tiles he wants to use for the front and side (31"x26" which can't really be cut other than lengthwise). The building this will be going in is brand new with concrete floors. It shouldn't have to be moved all that often, but due to the top and the tiles, it really can't come apart once it is together.

Another thought about the casters on the outer sides. Since they will be in the middle of a bottom panel, would it be worthwhile to glue something down the middle of the bottom to act like an I beam to help keep the bottom flat?

[Lee Schierer]

Another thought about the casters on the outer sides. Since they will be in the middle of a bottom panel, would it be worthwhile to glue something down the middle of the bottom to act like an I beam to help keep the bottom flat?

If you continue the black skirts drawn on each end of your sketch down the length front and rear they will act as the beam and greatly stiffen the base. Make them from plywood and screw and glue them to the base.

[Ed Aumiller]

Due to size & weight, use casters that are big enough... would use at least a 5" or 6" caster size.... made a cart about 8' for our church and used 4" casters, had to take it home and put 6" casters on it to make it movable without calling Paul Bunyan for help...

[Lee Ludden]

I've got the carcass all cut and ready to assemble. Next are the drawers. Each drawer is approximately 28" x 28", and either 12" or 8" deep. I will be building the drawers entirely out of plywood. I intend to use the left over plywood from the sheets I cut for the carcass to build the drawers.

For the drawer frames, will it be sufficient to use 6mm dominos to build the frames, or should they be some other joint?

For the drawer bottoms. I was thinking 1/2" baltic birch plywood inset on the frames and held in with 6mm dominos. I could also do a rabbet or dado. Any thoughts?

Thanks again.
Lee