Marking knife problem

[Fidel Fernandez]

I had to cut several dados and I realized that my marking Knife is not great for that task.

I have the Blue Bruce small knife, it is a nice tool and it fits nice on my hand. The problem is that the blade is not substantial enough to draw a line with against a ruler.

My first knife pull is very light to just mark the wood. The second pull is a little harder and third one is hard. So this creates a nice knife mark and I can chisel to the line.
The problem is the blade is thin and it follows the wood grain. I have problems chiseling to the line because the second one is too close and they become one.

I like the Vee point or diamond shape blade. So I can use it both directions. I had another one that was a single bevel, and I rather have double bevel (vee point).

Do you guys have any recommendation? I was thinking of Japanese marking knife (good thick blade) so I looked the Japan Woodworker site and they have one. I placed the order last week, but I still waiting for shipment.
I will cancel it if I get a better option.

Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Fidel

[Mike Henderson]

I like the single bevel knives, such as this one from Japan Woodworker. The only disadvantage is that you have to buy a left hand and a right hand. The 1/2" size is good for me.

Mike

[Jim Matthews]

I've started using a cheapo paring knife from the local discounter.

It's really good steel, and takes an amazing edge.
I opted for a hooked paring knife, with plastic handle.

I would like to point out that I only use a knife for striking CROSS grain.
For marking rip cuts, I use a Japanese Kebiki marking gauge.

[glenn bradley]

I use the LV Utilitas version with good result along and cross grain.

[Alfred Kraemer]

For marking/scoring with the grain along a side of a board I have been using a Kebiki marking/cutting gauge after I saw this demonstration on youtube http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hwzeONtOAFg.
That was one of my 'tool surprises' this year. I have a basic single beam kebiki with a beefy, sharp blade. On fairly staight grain, scoring with 2 to 3 passes on both sides one can break 3/8 in oak along the cut lines. A couple of passes with a plane to smooth the rough but straight edge, finishes the cut. Add a little to the final dimension if you use this technique.

For across-grain marking I mostly use a German- style chip carving knife. I like the Japanese marking knives, too. I have a spearpointed version which works well if I need a deeper marking.


Alfred

[Gary Daniel]

Steve Latta did a review of marking knifes in an article for FWW in 2008. Here's the link. http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-...ng-knives.aspx

He likes an Xacto I think with # 11 blades. Cheap and easy to find and the blades are replaceable.

Regards,

Gary

[Jim Koepke]

It seems like just yesterday this one was made in my shop:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-Marking-Knife

Amazing that it has been in use for over 6 years now. Some wood was added to the the shank for more comfortable use:

Marking Knife 1.jpg

This knife gets used all the time for scribing the sides of dados so the waste can be removed with an easy chisel stroke.

jtk

[Brian Holcombe]

I use the blue spruce knife without much issue, as much as I like it I am considering a japanese knife for heavier cuts. I have what's called a 'grafting' knife for bonsai which strikes a shocking resemblance to a marking knife for woodworking, so I may test it out to see how it works since a good set is surprisingly expensive.

[Daniel Rode]

I have several marking knives but I usually reach for my iGaging marking knives. I have one with the long thin blade that's great for dovetails and the thicker, wider iron for general marking. Both have V shaped edges to work in either direction. I also have a Paul Seller's style Stanley double edge knife. I works pretty well but prefer the the single edge knives.

I use these with and across the grain. For me, if the knife follows the grain, I'm usually pressing down too hard and/or the knife is dull.

The iGaging knives are great considering they cost me less than $10. It took little work to get the blades sharpened but probably only about 10 minutes.

I slightly round the point. I'm not sure why but it helps them cut smother and straighter.

[Derek Cohen]

Striking a line with a marking knife is as much technique as it is about the tool. Cutting too deeply too soon will result in the edge of the blade being sandwiched by the grain, and then following this.

The correct method in striking a line is to use several light strokes, rather than one or two deep strokes. use a stroke just light enough to severe the top layers of the surface, and then deepen the cut the same way, and progress onward.

Even a light knife can strike a deep line if this is done in this manner. Nevertheless, a heavier duty knife will always be a better choice in this area.

The two features that I look for in a heavy duty knife are (1) capable of handling a large amount of downforce, and (2) a broad, V-blade that may be used left- or right and will track against a straight edge.

Here are three options ..

One of the best of the high end knives is by Chris Vesper. This works as a skew chisel for cleaning out half-blind dovetails as well ..



I also have this inexpensive pocket knife from Lee Valley, called the Woodworker's Knife. I have honed away the secondary bevel ..



Make your own. Use an old Stanley blade. Here I used a cheap Japanese Kadeshi ...



This is single-sided, and so I needed two.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Don Slaughter]

I bought this knife from Phil Lowe about 7 years ago but it was a single bevel so I bought a Hock blade for it. https://plus.google.com/photos/10034...72905934603437 It is very hefty and easy to keep sharp with a strop. Cuts rip or cross grain without deviation. I also have a Stanley folding knife (like Paul Sellers uses) with replaceable blade that is light, sharp and easy to use for smaller work.

[george wilson]

WHY would LV put a hooked blade on a "woodworker's knife"? That is the last shape I'd want on one. How can you carve with it?

[lowell holmes]

How about a box cutter. They work well, just be sure to tilt the knife so the bevel against the straight edge is vertical.

You can make what Paul Sellers calls a knife wall.

[Chris Hachet]

Steve Latta did a review of marking knifes in an article for FWW in 2008. Here's the link. http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-...ng-knives.aspx

He likes an Xacto I think with # 11 blades. Cheap and easy to find and the blades are replaceable.

Regards,

Gary

Pretty much what I use. But then I am not up to the level of craftsmanship of a lot of the people here.

[glenn bradley]

WHY would LV put a hooked blade on a "woodworker's knife"? That is the last shape I'd want on one. How can you carve with it?

I believe the target purpose for it is just a rough and tough shop knife for general purposes around the shop (like opening your boxes from Lee Valley ). Seriously, I got one as a stocking stuffer and it is surprisingly useful as a striking knife for things where you are out in the open and don't need a good flat bearing surface. I reach for it more than I thought I would and had to relocate it closer to the bench . . . who knew? With the hooked point it is the opposite of the rounded tip that Daniel R. describes but, does have its uses.