Saw Nut Hole Diameter

[lowell holmes]

I'm making a tenon saw using a kit from Ron Bontz.

I bought a 1/4" diameter solid carbide drill bit for drilling the holes for the saw nuts. The saw nuts are 3/16" diameter. I am inclined to drill 1/4" holes in the saw plate for the saw nuts to go through. Is this the proper thing to do? I can order a 7/32" diameter drill bit.

Thanks.

[Jim Koepke]

Hopefully others will offer their experiences. My experience with one saw, with the holes were drilled bigger, is with changes in humidity the blade can have a little play causing it to wiggle.

Not terrible, but an occasional distraction.

jtk

[Carl Carew]

You will be very pleased with your saw. I bought a kit from Ron several years ago and am extremely happy with my saw. When I realized I had to drill the saw plate I stared at the kit for about 3 months totally afraid of ruining the plate. When I finally got the nerve I used the handle for a template and a centering punch (forget the proper name for it but you can get them in various sizes they are often used to mark the center of holes for door hinges) I then used my regular drill bits stepping up at least 3 times in size to 3/16 holes and then then reamed them about 3 thousandths oversize. It has become my favorite saw. You could also shoot Ron an email I am sure he would help you.

Enjoy

Carl

[lowell holmes]

I'm not inclined any more. I'm ordering a 7/32" diameter bit.

Ron has been a lot of help.


Thanks guys.

[Ron Bontz]

Hi every one. If the saw nuts were bought from me, they are 7/32" dia. with a 7/32" square under head. Definitely use a 7/32" carbide bit if you can. A straight flute or a spade type bit. A 3/16" chisel is handy for the squared hole. Any problems, feel free to contact me. The worse thing I could do is say I don't know. Best wishes.

[lowell holmes]

Ron,
I figured you would respond. It's appreciated.
I will have a 7/32" carbide spade type bit delivered Saturday. I knew I didn't want to use the 1/4" bit, but was looking for confirmation. They are your saw nuts.
Your service has been great.

[Winton Applegate]

hinge punch

If it is the one I am visualizing, like a vix bit, I would say there is a better way.
Blue the metal first so you can see the mark easier. You are going for a "scratch" more than a dent with these.
After all the metal in the blade is pretty tough and these are cheep punches.
Then take a high quality hardened center punch to your mark.
Preferably a prick punch first, then a wider angle center punch but there we get into rocket science and extravigant shoot the moon governmental tool bugets.

But if you want to stop sweatting and breaze through it:
Blue or black the metal (color with magic marker)
Transfer punch
Prick punch
Center punch

[lowell holmes]

Good call, Harbor Freight has a transfer punch set for about $9. I have a store about 15 minutes from where I sit.

$10 including tax. I would never known about transfer punches had Winton not posted. Thanks.

[Peter Evans]

Good call, Harbor Freight has a transfer punch set for about $9. I have a store about 15 minutes from where I sit.
$10 including tax. I would never known about transfer punches had Winton not posted. Thanks.

The carbide spade bits are fantastic, the only way to travel. Stewie Simpson worked out the best way to do this:
1. Tune up your drill press
2. Drill 7/32" holes through the handle
3. Use a 1/2" counterbore with 7/32" pilot to drill the space for the head and nut in the handle. Alternatively, after drilling each 7/32" hole, keep the handle clamped to the table, and use a Forstner bit instead of the counterbore. The counterbore is a bit pricy if you are only making one saw
4. After the holes are completed in the handle, place the saw plate in the handle, line up using the 7/32" drill in the drill press and then cut through the plate with the spade bit - perfect
No need for transfer punches. Stewie uses TFWW screws so he has no need for the next step, which is cutting the square mortise:
5. Get hold of a 1/4" machine mortising bit (I have not found any smaller than this, and I doubt there ever was a 7/32" size) on eBay. Place the drill that comes with the mortising bit (or if you do not have the matching drill, an ordinary drill of appropriate size) in the handle hole, place the mortise bit over the drill and hammer (preferably not metal) down to required depth, clean up mortise if necessary with a brad awl or similar. Lee Valley sell square hole punchs just for this purpose, and in 3/16" size. However a 1/4" hole should not cause any problems

Cheers
Peter

[Stewie Simpson]

As a follow up to what Peter has mentioned I have to give due credit to Isaac Smith from http://www.blackburntools.com/index.html. Isaac introduced me to the benefits of the 3/16 Solid Carbide Bit for drilling through saw plate. Lowell, I would recommend this same type of carbide bit in a 7/32 size.

To better explain the steps required to enable you to end up with perfectly aligned holes, Isaac has included a short video on his website. http://www.blackburntools.com/blog/d...in-saw-blades/

Stewie;

[Hilton Ralphs]

I've always thought this was a spade bit.

spade.jpg

Nonetheless, a couple of Chicago Latrobe Solid Carbide bits are now in my Amazon cart. Thanks for the lesson today.

Before this thread, I probably would have used with a stepped drill or one of my cobalt split point twist bits but I love tools so much that there's always room in the Inn for more.

[Stewie Simpson]

Lowell. The holes bored through the saw handle should be of the same dia. as the solid carbide bit being used to drill out the saw plate.

[Stewie Simpson]

Here the backsaw handle I started working on the other day.

The saw bolt assemblies have a 3/16 shank.

The saw blade slot is the next step.

The handle wood is Tasmanian Fiddleback Blackwood.

Stewie;