Now for something totally different! (chainsaws)

[John TenEyck]

I'm no expert but thought I would add that I have a Husqvarna Rancher 55 that I use for light duty use, cutting the occasional tree or larger branches. It leaks gas like crazy. I also know three other people with Husqvarna's (unknown models) that complain of leaking gas too. I don't know if that's a known issue with their saws or if it's a just a coincidence. Other than that, it starts easily and has little vibration so in that regard it's a good saw. With that said, if I had to do it all over again, I'd buy another well reviewed brand.

This is exactly why I told the OP to buy from dealer where he could get service, unless you want to learn how to fix your saw. Every CS I've owned needs regular maintenance, and occasionally they need some sort of repair. I have a Husky Rancher 55 and the leak you are talking about probably comes from the tank vent. If the leak happens when the tank is full but stops when it's partially empty, that's the problem. If it leaks until the tank is almost empty then it's the tank plug - just get a new one. Assuming it's the tank vent, it's an easy repair for a shop to make, and not hard to do yourself if you have the illustrated parts diagram so you can figure out what to disassemble. I'd walk you through it but I can't quite remember how to do it and am not able to get to the saw for a few days. But now that I think about it, it might be as simple as removing a single screw and small cover plate on the right side of the handle. The tank vent should be right under it. If so, you can push out the tank vent with a long pair of needle nose pliers inserted through the gas tank fill port. Install a new tank vent and you're done. Sometimes, they still leak, and then you have to apply a gas proof sealant to the tank vent as you insert it. If neither of those is the problem, then the tank or fuel line has a leak. If you use gas with ethanol it would be a good idea to change the fuel line, just in case, because a leaky fuel line is a recipe for burning up a piston/cylinder. If it's the tank, you should be able to get a replacement on E-bay, etc. for cheap, because that was a very popular saw and there are a lot of parts available from ones that died an early death - mostly because people used ethanol gas, didn't readjust the carb., and burned them up.

FWIW, that Rancher 55 is my favorite saw. Easy to start, light, and easy to handle with enough power for most anything less than 18" or so. I have a Stihl MS290 as well, and I reach for the Husky first every time.

John

[Brad Schafer]

... I don't think you can beat the echo 590 for power and price.

agreed. purchased one earlier this yr to replace a Stihl Farm Boss 038 that went to chainsaw heaven. we have stihl, echo, and husky saws here on the farm. don't see how you could go wrong with any of those ... but at the time the 590 was being sold at around $400 new, and is a lot of saw for the money.

[Jim O'Dell]

After dropping a dead Willow tree with a 14" Remington electric, housing broke half way through, and having to finish up with a 12" electric pole saw, I decided the next time I needed a chain saw I was going to get the best I could afford, within reason. Woke up one morning about 3 years ago with a tree in the front yard coming down and no chainsaw to use. Ran out to Tractor Supply and got a Husqvarna 445 and dropped the tree. It has never taken more than 3 pulls, and usually just 2, to start. I don't use it much, but it sure is a dream When I need to. Would like to have had a Stihl, just couldn't afford the one I wanted. Jim.

[bill tindall]

Stihl and Husky are the only saws I see being used professionally and each has it passionate followers. Each company makes a professional line and a home owners line. If you want a saw that will last a lifetime get a "200 series" Professional (I don' t know the latest exact number, maybe 260 but you want the modern 026 equivalent) and a 20 " bar so you aren't stooping while limbing. ) I don't own one but have used this saw a fair amount and found it nearly as fast in larger hardwood as the larger 300 series saws that I use a lot. It is slower than the 400 series but vastly lighter. (there will be a Husky equivalent but I have no personal experience with the equivalent.) I have a smaller lighter Husky non-rofessional series saw I use when I am packing a saw. It starts quicker than my 036, 046 and it has been reliable and quick cutting.

But before buying the saw, buy chaps and steel toes shoes. And attend a class on timber cutting. You then will not only look cool while cutting and appear to know what you are doing, but you will be significantly safer. Chain saw injuries and common and gruesome.

[Mike Cutler]

I have a 28 year old Echo 660. I do nothing special too it at all. It sits sometimes for years between uses. Put some gas in it, add the bar lube and off I go.
In your case I would expect that you would see the same result, regardless of whom you choose a saw made by.
Stihl, "Husky", Echo, any would suit you needs. If you liked and trusted Stihl in the past, I would advise you to get a new Stihl with an ~24" bar. Not too big, and generally not too small.

[Rob Holcomb]

This is exactly why I told the OP to buy from dealer where he could get service, unless you want to learn how to fix your saw. Every CS I've owned needs regular maintenance, and occasionally they need some sort of repair. I have a Husky Rancher 55 and the leak you are talking about probably comes from the tank vent. If the leak happens when the tank is full but stops when it's partially empty, that's the problem. If it leaks until the tank is almost empty then it's the tank plug - just get a new one. Assuming it's the tank vent, it's an easy repair for a shop to make, and not hard to do yourself if you have the illustrated parts diagram so you can figure out what to disassemble. I'd walk you through it but I can't quite remember how to do it and am not able to get to the saw for a few days. But now that I think about it, it might be as simple as removing a single screw and small cover plate on the right side of the handle. The tank vent should be right under it. If so, you can push out the tank vent with a long pair of needle nose pliers inserted through the gas tank fill port. Install a new tank vent and you're done. Sometimes, they still leak, and then you have to apply a gas proof sealant to the tank vent as you insert it. If neither of those is the problem, then the tank or fuel line has a leak. If you use gas with ethanol it would be a good idea to change the fuel line, just in case, because a leaky fuel line is a recipe for burning up a piston/cylinder. If it's the tank, you should be able to get a replacement on E-bay, etc. for cheap, because that was a very popular saw and there are a lot of parts available from ones that died an early death - mostly because people used ethanol gas, didn't readjust the carb., and burned them up.

FWIW, that Rancher 55 is my favorite saw. Easy to start, light, and easy to handle with enough power for most anything less than 18" or so. I have a Stihl MS290 as well, and I reach for the Husky first every time.

John

Thanks for the input John. I agree with you to buy a saw from a dealer rather than a big box store. Dealer service is invaluable, especially for someone like me who has no knowledge of how to repair a chainsaw. In my situation, I have had it to a very reputable dealer on three occasions for the gas leak problem and it continues to leak. I almost have enough money paid in repair bills that I would have spent if I would have just bought a new saw from the start. That will be my next step!

[David Helm]

I've had my Stihl 024AV for 25 years. It's been a very good saw. The arborist I use has only Huskies and he swears by them. I think if you go with either brand you'll do fine.

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on buying the best saw your local shop will service.

Get a proper set of chaps, and a face guard.
Whatever saw you buy, get two chains.

When the first one is dull, put the second on.
Take first to shop for sharpening.

Rinse, and repeat.

(I use a Dolmar 7900, also.)

[Dan Neuhaus]

Was a property manager for 7 years on a 1000 acre wooded estate and ran the heck out of Stihl saws. MS 260 pro was my favorite if a little carb finicky. When I left that position about a year ago and needed a new saw I decided to give Husky a try because I prefer their string trimmers. Found a good price on a 550xp and I'm pretty sure I'll never go back to a Stihl. The xp runs like a champ and always starts first few pulls. It may have been mentioned but if you need more info check out arboristsite.com

[Keith Hankins]

Wow thanks everybody I never expected all the great reply's.

[Rick Fisher]

I have a really good friend who is a pro faller, he destroys a saw every 12-14 months. They port and tune them, make them run as hard as possible. He just switched from Husqi to Stihl. The reason was Husqi was burning up too fast. He said he has no idea if Stihl will last longer, but figured he would try one. On the crew, they bicker over Husqi and Stihl like Ford and Chev.

[Danny Hamsley]

The Stihl MS 362 is a pro saw, and it is what I would buy. I have the predecessor MS 361 that I have felled hundreds of trees with. I would not buy a homeowner version of the Husquvana like you see in Lowes and Home Depot. They are will not hold up to regular use.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks for the input John. I agree with you to buy a saw from a dealer rather than a big box store. Dealer service is invaluable, especially for someone like me who has no knowledge of how to repair a chainsaw. In my situation, I have had it to a very reputable dealer on three occasions for the gas leak problem and it continues to leak. I almost have enough money paid in repair bills that I would have spent if I would have just bought a new saw from the start. That will be my next step!

Based on your statement, Rob, I think you should find a Stihl or other, non-Husky, dealer, because they should have been able to find and fix that gas leak the first time. I'm not saying every problem is easy to find, but that one can only be caused by a few things that are easy to sort out. You could still do it yourself if you've a mind to. Call me if you need help.

John

[Larry Edgerton]

On the flip side of that coin I wrapped a Stihl pro model blower around a tree because I had it back to the dealer a few times and it would still not start when I needed it. Thats why I switched to Husky. No saying Husky won't let me down, but my dealer is awesome. Then, there is always Echo......

[Roy Turbett]

But before buying the saw, buy chaps and steel toes shoes. And attend a class on timber cutting. You then will not only look cool while cutting and appear to know what you are doing, but you will be significantly safer. Chain saw injuries and common and gruesome.

+1 on safety first. Safety equipment and training is cheap compared to a visit to the ER or cemetary. Keep in mind that some older models of brand name saws don't have modern safety equipment like brakes. Your best bet is to visit a dealer who can point you in the right direction.