After making my first farmhouse table for my daughter, i am pleased that a friend has asked me to make one for him as well.
so now i am scared to death. i am using the same materials - antique 2" x 6" pine flooring and antique 3x6 pine beams for legs and base frame. the top will be 7 the tongue and grooved flooring, with Kreg pocket screws every 6", with breadboards on each end.
on my first table, i simply deepened the existing groove on the BB and cut a tongue to fit on the ends of the table using a router. with this, the T&G extends the whole length of the BB and width of the table, and is visible on the ends. i attached the BB using a Kreg jig and pocket screws (no glue), so it is attached firmly. i suppose after a full year of climate fluctuations i will see if there are any issues. i am hoping the poly finsh (4 coats) will have it pretty well sealed and movement will be minimized. October to Feb and all is well so far. This table went to my daughter, so I can always repair if anything happens, but since I am about to make the 2nd for a client so I obviously have to get it right the first time....so i have done a bit of researching BB's and found the method to use a center dowel fully glued, glue the center 6" or so of the BB to table, then dowels on each end glued to the BB but floating freely in an oblong hole in the tongue.
so my question is - anything wrong with the full length T&G with the above method that I am missing? also, i assume that it is a given that at various times of the year the BB will not be flush with the sides of the table?
for reference - here is the site i found (scroll past the glue up to get to the BB), so i plan to do the same method but with a full length T&G
http://oldhousecrazy.com/2012/02/26/...ad-board-ends/
David