Ideas requested for running duct work to a TS

[Anthony Whitesell]

One of my current projects among many, is setting up my new DC and running larger duct work. All but one of the runs I have figured out. They are either behind a wall or overhead. The new table saw location wants the duct to come down behind a sheetrock wall to its right. The problem with the wall to the right of the TS is the foundation is behind it. To save floor space, all ductwork is overhead and then drops to the tool. So the question to the clever people here; how do I get the drop from over head to the tablesaw while minimizing the loss of floor space?

I have come up with two options so far:
1) Convert to a rectangular duct that fits within the wall cavity (2x4 studded wall 16"OC) with the cross sectional area matching the trunk.

2) Cut the top wall plate and build a structure to re-support the missing piece. Since the cabinet port is 4", I'm tempted to run a 4" vertical drop but I know I should run 6". Using a 4" drop minimizes the protrusion from the wall. With a 2x4 stud and 1/2" sheetrock, the 4" duct would be almost flush with the sheetrock (ie., zero lost floor space)

If you suggest modifying the TS cabinet port to 5" or 6", can you post photos of how you modified your brand new SawStop tablesaw to accommodate the larger port. I'm just not keen on taking a cutter to the base of a brand new table saw, thus my hesitancy. FYI. I have a plan to run the blade port directly to the trunk not merge the 2" blade outlet with the 4" cabinet outlet into a 4" hose as I noticed SS does when the overarm DC option is selected. That's just silly.

This is a basement shop and the top plates do not support the house structure in any way. So there is lots of room to play with. I won't say the+ sky is the limit, but pretty close.

[mike mcilroy]

I ran a 6" drop off a 6" main directly to the saw and have been advised for over the blade collection I should have stayed with the 4" port. If I would have had larger than a 6" main I would have been ok. If you are running a 6" main then you can avoid cutting your brand new saw unless the port is on the wrong side. Here is what I did if you decide to enlarge.
I had to cut an opening in the opposite side of my Jet xacta saw to make a better run for the duct. Used a 6" furnace take off. Drilled four 3/8" holes representing the corners of the take off and connected the dots with a jig saw with the proper rated metal blade. Blades cost me $8 for a 5 pack. Cutting took 5 to 10 mins. I put self adhesive weather stripping around the take off, self tapping screws to secure it, foil tape around the outside for my peace of mind. On the inside bent all the tabs over and alittle more tape for smoother edges. I did all of this while crawling under the extension table. There's a couple of different metal blades but the package should tell you how thick the metal the blade can cut. You could do the same thing with the round fittings from the big box stores, I can't remember whether they call them take offs or something different but same theory. Just trace the ftting size drill,cut attach and seal. The right blade makes it very easy.
Here is that thread for other ideas.
Enlarging dust port on table saw?

[Anthony Whitesell]

I ran a 6" drop off a 6" main directly to the saw and have been advised for over the blade collection I should have stayed with the 4" port. If I would have had larger than a 6" main I would have been ok. If you are running a 6" main then you can avoid cutting your brand new saw unless the port is on the wrong side. Here is what I did if you decide to enlarge.

That part I knew. If I go with a 6" main, then enlarging to port maybe a moot point. Though I was thinking of building an Alan S. style gate with a 6" opening on one side and a 4 1/2" opening on the other, with the center solid (closed). I'm hoping to go with a 7" main, but it isn't determined yet. Either way I have to deal with the 2x4 wall against the foundation.

[mike mcilroy]

I took a look on HD, Lowes , Menards for oval 6" or 7" duct which would have a lower profile but I didn't see any 26 gauge. Maybe a local HVAC supplier or special order from one of those stores? If you go rectangular something like this for transition http://www.menards.com/main/p-2369147-c-14260.htm. Again unsure about gauge although the short length of the transition should hold up.

[Anthony Whitesell]

There is a local HVAC supplier. I am hoping they supply to the public and have decent prices. There also exists a right angle boot as well. But will the duct matter if it is rectangular? What will effect will there be on CFM/SP during the transitions?

[mike mcilroy]

The oval to round transitions look to be very similar to the round elbows as far as radius so I think the effects would be minimal. The right angle rectangular transition I think would have more effect couldn't tell you how much though. Sorry. Maybe the Oneida or Penn State guys could advise by email off their web site?