peppermill question

[Dave Fritz]

Directions given by Nick Cook and others say to start with an 1 5/8 hole, then a 1 1/16th inch hole and finish with a 1 inch hole all the way through the blank. They also then again bore a 1 1/16 inch hole in the top to allow a larger tenon into the body of the mill.

Why not just go all the way through with the 1 1/16th? Is it to be able to have a thinner mill where people grip it? Doesn't seem like 1/16th of an inch makes much difference and it sure seems easier.

Dave Fritz

[Roger Chandler]

I use a 1-1/16" hole all the way through after the 1-5/8" is cut.......I make the tenon to fit that hole at the join of the top to the body.......if you are careful to size this correctly, you will have a fine peppermill. That being said, the drill bit wondering off center may be a problem, but you can mitigate that by reversing the blank ........not a bad idea to cut that hole all the way through before you shape the blank on the outside........that way you can be assured that the through hole will stay centered, but you will have to cut the top portion off before you begin to drill so you can keep a tenon, or add a tenon to the two sides with another piece of wood.

[Thom Sturgill]

I use a 1-1/16" hole all the way through after the 1-5/8" is cut.......I make the tenon to fit that hole at the join of the top to the body.......if you are careful to size this correctly, you will have a fine peppermill. That being said, the drill bit wondering off center may be a problem, but you can mitigate that by reversing the blank ........not a bad idea to cut that hole all the way through before you shape the blank on the outside........that way you can be assured that the through hole will stay centered, but you will have to cut the top portion off before you begin to drill so you can keep a tenon, or add a tenon to the two sides with another piece of wood.

Just a thought, its been a while since I made a peppermill...

If you drill to the needed depth from the bottom, then mark the bottom of the hole on the outside and part off the top staying to the bottom side of your mark, the top would have a dimple created by the bottom of the drill. Use that to center the top to cut the tenon and you should have the best grain match and a centered hole. just make sure that the blank is large enough to compensate for drill drift.

[Dave Fritz]

Actually I just checked and I don't use a 1 1/16th, rather a 1 1/8th. I drill half way through, then reverse the base and drill the other way. If I go slow and clean out often the holes line up just fine. That's with a 1 inch bit. I too thn put in the 1 1/8th to make a bigger hole for the tenon.

I think from now on I'll just use the 1 1/8th inch bit and turn the base when part way through and do the other half. Taking my time and going slow keeps things from getting too hot and gives the bit a chance to work. Saves a bit of time so I don't have to change from 1 1/8th to 1 and then back to 1 1/8th.

Unless I'm missing something?

Dave Fritz

[Roger Chandler]

Just a thought, its been a while since I made a peppermill...

If you drill to the needed depth from the bottom, then mark the bottom of the hole on the outside and part off the top staying to the bottom side of your mark, the top would have a dimple created by the bottom of the drill. Use that to center the top to cut the tenon and you should have the best grain match and a centered hole. just make sure that the blank is large enough to compensate for drill drift.

Certainly another valid way of doing it, Thom........

[Clint Merrill]

Another thought here;
I make a lot of mills using the 1-1/16 hole for centering the mechanism, drilled as far as it will go with a Forstner bit. Then I re-mount from the base end and drill to within an inch or so of the base with a 1-1/4 bit. This gives room for more kernels and less frequent filling and also provides a good wide diameter for the tenon on the top to rotate in, and I also recess the round guide washer into this tenon. Rough turn the top with this tenon and hole for the shaft and fit into the base to finish turning as a unit, and WA-LA, a completed mill.! Hope this will be helpful for you .
Clint Merrill

[Pat Scott]

Dave are you using the Deluxe mechanism? If so, I would strongly urge you to NOT use a 1-1/8" bit when drilling the bottom hole. I tried that one time, and you wouldn't think there is that much difference between 1-1/16" and 1-1/8", but with the bigger hole the grinder housing has too much room to move around and will not cover all of the hole. I had to fuss with the housing quite a bit to try and center it exactly so it covered any cracks. Think of it as if you have a 1" plug trying to cover a 1" hole. Sounds easy enough, but if you get off center by a hair now you have a gap on one edge. That's what will happen if you use a 1-1/8" hole for the mechanism.

Either buy a 1-1/16" bit, or use a 1" bit and then enlarge the hole to 1-1/16". To enlarge a 1" hole, just lay a skew on it's side and use the long point to open up the hole. Go easy, it doesn't take much. Always drill the through hole from both sides, don't try and do it all in one pass from only one direction.

[Dave Fritz]

Pat, I'm using kits from Chefwarekits. Actually I haven't noticed a problem but your point is well taken. I have to go to Woodcraft Monday, I'll pick up the 1 1/16 bit to be on the safe side.
Clint, I like your method, thanks for sharing, it makes good sense.
My challenge now is to drill the small hole in the top so the top and bottom are lined up. I'm going to start the hole with a center finder and go really slow. With some time and practice and help from you folks I'll get er done.

Thank you,
Dave Fritz