Just purchased a near mint Model 66 Powermatic

[William Mark Dulken]

I just purchased a 2003 Powermatic model 66 from a seller off Craigslist. They bought it new and soon realized it was more saw than they needed, put in storage for 12 years and decided to sell it last week. It is equipped with a 3HP single phase Baldor motor, has the 52in Accufence, mobil base and best of all it's Made in America. It's in really good shape, almost pristine, and I got it for $1400.

If it's got any need for attention it's due to neglect rather than abuse I suspect. I ran the saw in their shop before we dismantled it for transport. I heard a slight roar along with the blade cutting wind but figured it had to be the belts were old and cold because there is so little use on the saw the bearings could not be bad. I also grabbed the arbor once the top was off and could not get any lateral play.

What advice do you 66 owners have for me as I re-assemble and set this saw back up?

[Rich Riddle]

I change the bearings on all saws that age. "It hasn't been running though," some will say. Change the bearings anyway. It doesn't take that long and you will likely replace the bearings with much better ones than it had from the factory. You will also want to align the blade and miter slots along with the fence. Imperative to do that.

On a side note, thanks for posting an honest sale price. You got a fair deal to both you and the seller. Many times we hear stories about people buying saws like these for $500 or less. Those are mostly embellishments.

I have used many saws in military woodworking shops including Delta, Powermatic variations, General, and Sawstop, etc. Without a doubt, the Powermatic 66 cuts the best, followed closely by the General.

[William Mark Dulken]

Without a doubt, the Powermatic 66 cuts the best, followed closely by the General.

Speaking of realistic prices, my other choice last week was a 25yr old Canadian General 3HP saw on CL for $975. I choose the 66 because I always wanted one.

[David Kumm]

Good deal. I'd second the look at the bearings. Sitting can be worse than running and sealed bearings have about a 20 year life in best circumstances. The motor also has bearings. I'd put SKF explorer in the arbor spindle and regular skf in the motor. Dave

[scott spencer]

It's currently an "alleged" PM66....I don't see any evidence yet!

[Judson Green]

Didn't happen!!!!

pichers.jpg

[Jonathan Freinkel]

I got premium bearings from a motor shop near me for $9 each. It was cheap insurance and extremely easy to do!

I like my saw a lot more now! Its quieter and smoother than anything I have seen. Well worth the ~$20

[Chris Padilla]

William,

This is a pretty lousy gloat thread ya got going here with zero pics for us to salivate over!!

[Matt Day]

Rich, try not to be too jealous/bitter about other people finding deals. They do exist - there was a $400 3hp Uni here last week.

[Peter Quinn]

Congrats, I look forward to seeing your pictures! (Hint hint....). I have some idea what they will look like as I have the same saw of similar vintage in my own shop. I'd suggesting following the assembly instructions in the manual and checking all tolerances as if assembling a new unit, clean and lubricate the bevel and height gears on the trunion. You might consider getting a new set of belts if they sat idle for 20 years. I'm not of the opinion that bearings go bad from sitting, this hasn't been my experience, I'd remove any surface rust and run the motor a while to see if it quiets down before doing an arbor and motor tear down. There is nothing wrong with the hearings on this machine as delivered, it's not a cheap Chinese import, I've seen them 30+ years in service on the original motor bearings and still running smooth, arbor bearings take more of a hit with heavy use. Enjoy it and work safe. PS...the OEM blade guard is pretty bad, best thing I did was install a biesmeyer splitter, an overarm guard would go a long way toward improved dust collection and a bit of extra safety.

[Don Jarvie]

Agree with Peter, if the bearings spin freely without any noise leave them. I put matching Gates belts on mine and cleaned and lubed everything.

[David Kumm]

You can always pry a seal off a spindle bearing and check. If the grease looks good, I would agree that it isn't likely that you need to go farther and put it back on. If shielded you take your chances. I've gone both ways. Dave

[Rich Riddle]

I simply find it much easier to install bearings when setting up a machine rather than when in the midst of a project and one starts acting up. Sort of the reason I change timing belts on a car prior to he belt actually breaking. In the military they call it preventative maintenance or PM.

[William Mark Dulken]

Thanks everyone. I'll get pics up soon.

[Butch Spears]

Grats on the saw.

Question for Peter and the rest of you WW? not to hijack thread, but might help OP and others as well.

I have same PM equipment. 66, 15" planer, shaper and 8" joiner. that I bought new about 15 years ago. have very little use on them.
having just retired, I am finally setting it all up to use.

What is the correct lubricant and grease to use?

I went yesterday to find the 50wt gear oil for gear box on the planer. guy says they did not have 50wt BUT just use 75. I said I would look other place.

So recommend what to use when we do not know.

to the OP, hope this helps you and all the rest of us.

Thanks guys for any info you can give us.