Getting a Saw Started

[Curt Putnam]

Jim,

Thanks for that video. So far, I've watched it about a dozen times. One thing I did notice was that you still do a little pulling backwards. Muscle memory. Issac mentioned starting on the near side for dovetail cuts - that way one can follow both lines at the same time. I find that for the far corner it's easier to use the toe end of the saw and for the near corner it's easier to use the heel end. That's for back saws. Big rip saws are another ball game whose rules I have yet to comprehend let alone master.

In my quest to learn the use of a hand saw I have tried many approaches. For dovetail cuts where any lack of precision tells I have found Kevin Glen-Drake's Kerf Starter to be a very useful tool. A properly sharpened and burnished Kerf Starter leaves a nice guide trench for the saw. They come is different plate widths so you can match to your saw's plate. I have yet to try using it for dado cuts. One day - RSN.

[Jim Koepke]

One thing I did notice was that you still do a little pulling backwards.

One of the videos that helped me a lot was of someone moving their saw rapidly back and forth to start their cuts on end grain. My attempts at getting good at this technique hasn't been totally successful.

Funny how all the little details of what one does aren't apparent until someone else calls them to our attention.

It is good to see others contribute to this discussion. Every little tip or practice added may help others to improve their work.

jtk

[Daniel Rode]

I need a little more practice for it to become habit. My natural instinct is to pull back since I've always done it that way. Getting good at it is a much, much longer process

Thanks Dan.



Glad to hear you only "need a little more practice." It seems I am going to need a lot more.

jtk

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian, what do you mean by "start it flat on the cut"?

Quite literally flat on the board, I use my thumb as a fence until I get a groove started, then I will angle the saw nose up.

[Daniel Rode]

I'm having trouble visualizing this. I'll start a cut this way for through dovetails but I can't see how it would work sawing a board across the length with a normal rip saw. Putting the nose up, would put the handle below the saw bench, No?

Quite literally flat on the board, I use my thumb as a fence until I get a groove started, then I will angle the saw nose up.

[paul cottingham]

Forgive me for saying his name aloud, but I use Chris Shwarz' (or however you spell his name) method. Hold the saw like a baby bird. Stroke forward like you are lightly landing a plane. Lightly is the key.
Works well for me, and I can barely feel my hands or a saw in them when I'm holding it. All you healthy fellows should find it easy.
Or maybe someone else brought this up and I didn't see it.

[Judson Green]

Quite literally flat on the board, I use my thumb as a fence until I get a groove started, then I will angle the saw nose up.

Sorry, still confused... no actually more confused.

I'm probably reading things into it. Took me quit a while to understand what a booby trap really does.

[Brian Holcombe]

Perhaps I'll post a video tonight.

[Mike Allen1010]

I've seen a lot of people pick up my saws over the past couple of years. A fair percentage of these struggle with using them, especially starting the cut. There are three suggestions I offer that seem to help most people. It looks pretty much like your video.

First: Give yourself a running start. Figuratively, of course, by starting with most, or even all, of the weight of the saw off of the wood. If the teeth are hovering above the wood, or just barely touching it, it is much easier to start moving the saw forward to gain momentum. Once that momentum is gathered, put it to work and bear down a bit more.

Second: Anchor the saw against yourself. Set your offhand thumb on the wood, then press the saw lightly against it. This keeps the saw from skittering sideways as you start pushing it. This is especially important if you follow the advice above.

Third: I like to cut with the grain when possible (this really only applies to rip cuts). For cuts like dovetails or tenon cheeks, that means either starting the cut on the near side of the wood or starting with the teeth flat on the end grain. Starting the cut on the far side is similar to planing against the grain. It works, but it usually sounds and feels a bit rougher.

That's about all I have. Nothing exotic, and it may not work for everyone.

+1 to what Issac said. Particular the part about think "hovering" saw teeth over the layout line, guided by your offhand thumb.

When using a full-size saw (as compared to a backed saw), I think it's helpful to keep the tooth line at a very small angle relative to the workpiece when starting the cut (Almost like the teeth are laying flat on top of the workpiece). this makes it easier to keep the weight off the saw to let you "hover" it where you want to start. Once you get the cut started, you can increase the angle to a more comfortable, efficient 45° (or whatever works for you):

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[Ron Bontz]

I would not put myself in the expert category but here is how I generally test/ start the cuts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ql4KERFajyI Different strokes for different folks.

[Brian Holcombe]

I'm certainly not expert with this saw yet, but I think I've got a good handle on it, this is how I start. Mind you, I generally cut small pieces on the regular bench, but I wanted to show the saw bench in use as well.

http://youtu.be/zgY5Mblfilc

[Brian Holcombe]

Sawing through 5/4 walnut with the Dovetail saw

http://youtu.be/XCjAXaENfXM

[Brian Holcombe]

I have one on how to light a cigar as well, if more help is needed.

[Judson Green]

I have one on how to light a cigar as well, if more help is needed.

Nope, if smoking and drink was a martial art I'd be a black belt.

Thanks for the videos

[Brian Holcombe]

A man after my own heart. I trust that's true among much of this crowd, the whisk(e)y thread really took off for a while there, almost to point of contending with a Freehand sharpening thread.

Anytime!