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Thread: Tool Cabinet Build

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tokyo, Japan
    Posts
    1,550
    Nice job indeed, Joe. You need a super sharp chisel when doing joints in cedar. Please keep us posted as the project progresses.

    Stan

  2. #17
    Thanks for the update. It's really coming out beautifully!
    I'm with Bruce on the dividers.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,514
    Blog Entries
    1
    She's a beauty Joe. A fine home for your fine tools.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mont Vernon, NH
    Posts
    155
    loving those doors- nice wood choice.
    I have a question for you on mounting this on the wall- I have just finished a slightly larger unit (48" wide about 28" high), that I intended to use as a bookcase in the workshop. I am now trying to work out the safest way to mount to the wall- are you planning a french cleat on the back, or angled support underneath, or something else?
    good luck with the rest of the build

    Mike

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southwestern CT
    Posts
    1,392
    Nice choice on the cedar ... that should be gentle on the blades and bodies. Inspirational.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    1,378
    Thanks Bill. Mike, I did go with a French Cleat. Prior to this cabinet, I used these book shelves which also are mounted using French Cleats for my planes. I really like using French Cleats in the shop.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mont Vernon, NH
    Posts
    155
    Thanks Joe- how meaty did you go with the cleat approach- is 4/4 with 2 1/2" screws enough, or do I need to be thinking lag bolts?

    thanks again

    Mike

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    1,378
    I used 3" #12 wood screws (two per stud about 2" apart) attaching the cleat to the wall. I pre-drilled to avoid splitting the studs. The cleat attached to the cabinet is attached to a hanging rail with #8 wood screws, one every four inches. I wanted a little extra shear strength over a standard 2 1/2" screw used for hanging kitchen cabinets. This site (http://www.screwdoctor.com/applicati...ical_data.aspx) rates their #12 general purpose screws at 720 lbs.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA
    Posts
    2,230
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    Sweeeet Joe! Somehow the spalted maple and cedar doors seem very Krenovian ( there must be a similar looking piece in Cabinet makers Notebook - probably just dating myself). I also really like the dividers-classy!

    Thanks for sharing the picks. Best wishes to your daughter and her husband for much happiness .

    Cheers, Mike

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mont Vernon, NH
    Posts
    155
    Thanks Joe- I appreciate that info!

    best wishes

    Mike

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