Is this resawing good enough?

[Jay Aubuchon]

I need some perspective from a more experienced bandsaw user. I resawed some 3-inch thick red oak. With more practice, better adjustment, or a better blade, should I be able to get smoother results? Or this reasonably good?

The saw is a Grizzly G0513X2. The blade is a Timber Wolf 3/4" by 0.025" with 3 TPI.

Thanks!

[Erik Loza]

A 3 TPI skip-tooth blade will give you a pretty gnarly surface finish. Is the piece dimensioned the way you want? If so, the machine is set up right and it's just a matter of getting a blade for the finish you're looking for.

Erik

[Myk Rian]

You are pushing the wood through too fast.

[Terry Beadle]

For production resawing, what you are getting is ok, even good. It will definitely need further processing.

However, IMO you should use a Highland Hardware' wood slicer 1/2 inch 3 tpi. It will do the job and give a much smoother result. This would be for smaller work pieces and lumber that doesn't require serious HP to do the resawing.

I guess what I'm saying is that the wood slicer gets you closer to a use able finish. However, if you run the work piece through a sharp bladed thicknesser, you will get an almost glue ready surface. It will also be ready for a quick smoother plane session that's fairly short.

[glenn bradley]

Looks about right for the material/blade combination. You can smooth that result by slowing your feed rate. I generally run Timberwolf 3/4" 2-3 vari blades and the result is about the same. But, this is a fast cutting blade configuration. Things like the Woodslicer will give you a smoother result but, will not last as long. Carbide blades give a smoother result and a long life but, are a bit of an initial invenstment. Very, very few parts make it from a machine to its eventual role on a piece without further preparation from me so, that result is fine for me.

I do keep a Woodslicer around for when I need to really squeeze the yield out of a piece of limited stock. The kerf is narrow and the result fairly smooth so I can get 3 panels out of a board instead of 2 for example. The additional yield does not pay for the additional blades required over time though so this is a fix for a problem, not an everyday use practice for me. YMMV.

[Erik Loza]

If someone is looking for a nice finish quality, I can suggest the Lenox Diemaster II. You'll have to watch the feed rate but the finish quality is good.

The carbide blade is another potential option though I would make sure the machine's frame and tensioning assembly can handle it. Best of luck,

Erik

[Bill Adamsen]

Did a test cut just to get a comparison (was wondering if I'd do any better). Well broken in (2500 ft of mixed hard and softwood plus 1 steel screw) Lennox Woodmaster CT which (just) cut this piece of 2-3/4" Locust.

[Brian W Smith]

Jay,think of a BS as a "stringed" instrument.I could sell you a classic 335 Gibson.....heck,we'll even tune it while you're here.But once you've got it home?How well you play is largely based on how well you've been taught,and how well you've practiced.....what you've been taught.

Try some different blades.....don't wait for them to get trashed before trying something else.Learn how/why to sharpen blades....not that you will ever actually do it,but it's definitely part of the process.Smoooooooth out the infeed,in whatever/however it takes.This is "sort" of irrespective of feed rate.It's like telling someone what setting on a spray gun......you need to figure it out for yourself,your shop,your parameters.But it HAS to be smooth.The blade and the machine are causing enough trouble.....we don't need to have an infeed that's drunken(machinist,drunken thread reference).Good luck,keep at it.

[Jim German]

If someone is looking for a nice finish quality, I can suggest the Lenox Diemaster II.

What sort of tooth set and size would you recommend?

[DOUG ANGEL]

I got similar results with a Timberwolf 3/4" blade on my Jet 14" BS with Carter blade guides. After re-sawing, I run it through my Grizzly 10" drum sander, so I don't worry too much about the cut finish.

[Jay Aubuchon]

With the same blade and setup, I made another cut with a much slower feed rate. I definitely could work on feeding more smoothly. But the slower rate did help. A previous cut is on the left. The slower cut is on the right.

The rough cut is not a problem per se. My planer cleans that up easily. I was asking for two reasons.

One is what Glenn mentioned: sometimes I would like to squeeze out one more slice. It's not that I'm working with expensive wood; it's that my lumber source is 1 1/2 hours away.

The other is that I am trying to learn how to use this new machine well; I don't have anyone around to give any guidance.

I believe I will order a Wood Slicer. Any pros and cons between the 1/2" and the 3/4"? The price difference is not enough to be a deciding factor. I'll keep the Lenox Diemaster II in mind for later.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

[Erik Loza]

What sort of tooth set and size would you recommend?

If I'm not mistaken, the Diemaster only comes in a half-inch width. Something like 5-6 TPI. It's like a hacksaw blade, which is why it's finish is so smooth but of course, you have to watch the feed rate.

...I believe I will order a Wood Slicer. Any pros and cons between the 1/2" and the 3/4"? The price difference is not enough to be a deciding factor...

I'd buy one of each and see which you prefer. Blade choice is a lot of personal taste as well.

Erik

[James Conrad]

If I'm not mistaken, the Diemaster only comes in a half-inch width. Something like 5-6 TPI.

Erik

You can get the Diemaster 2 from Spectrum in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2", .025 and .035, 3 to 18 TPI, and in vari-tooth, standard and hook.

It use to be my go to blade for resaw, I like the Woodmaster CT better though if your saw can tension a larger blade.

[Wade Lippman]

I've never done any better than that.

[John TenEyck]

The Woodslicer is amazingly smooth but it will bind up if your wood closes up at all. I found it is OK for slicing veneer, but not for resawing thick sections, at least not the wood I normally use. ANY little closing of the kerf and it will bind up because there's almost no set to the teeth. Here's some hard maple with the Woodslicer:

IMG_3313.JPG

And here's what a Diemaster II looks like, a 1/2" x 4 tpi blade to be exact:

IMG_3789.JPG

This was also hard maple of about the same width of approx. 6-1/2" inches. The surface is very good, just a shade worse than the Woodslicer. The kerf is much larger but it never binds, and it will outlast the Woodslicer by several times for maybe $5 more in initial cost. Easy choice for me.

John