John-No, they don't get in the way and I'm pretty clumsy. The table and the fence rail protrude more than where the wheels are attached. I've never bolted the base to the band saw to the mobile base, (yet). The weight of the band saw keeps it in place. The whole thing moves about quite easily even with the big expansion grooves in the garage floor.
sorry for the upside-down pictures, by-the-way...
Same, I shamelessly stole the idea off of someone on here. Exceedingly happy with this design, it actually made the saw MORE stable because its wider than the original base. Can't recommend this design enough, simply fantastic. I usually only lock down the two front wheels (facing the saw from the side) unless I'm pushing something heavier than I strictly ought to be through it.
The HTC1000 is - imho - completely useless for everything. I have it under a couple of machines because I bought two before I figured out what a n absolutely horrible design it is.
The HTC2000 is just as bad.
The HTC3000 is actually usable and doesn't require tipping everything to precarious angles to move it. I was originally going to put that under my bandsaw until I saw the above design. I do have one under my one drill press with a fairly wide base made out of three layers of glued and screwed 3/4" plywood. Its pretty stable and moves fairly easily.
I know... I'm still trying to make this thing work.
I got the new wheels yesterday. They are much better than the ones that came with the MB.
They roll better and don't raise the front up so much. I had to apply a generous portion of grease to the cams to get it to work but it's still not easy to change height positions. At least it's possible now. And I love the way it rolls now. The wheels were only $6/EA but light years better than the originals.
The originals with the bent cam. This was the problem corner.
I just bought a used Sears BAS 350 bandsaw from a fellow sawmill creek member.
I needed a mobile base so I could roll it against the wall when not in use. After checking the available commercial models, I decided to build my own. I found a design I liked on youtube, and built it last night. it only cost me 4 HF wheels ($4 ea). I had the galvanized pipe, hardware and plywood already. It uses wooden cams to raise and lower the wheels as needed.
Here is a picture of the wheels raised up, so the bandsaw sits fully on its legs:
IMG_3191 small.jpg
Here is a picture of the wheels lowered so it can roll around:
IMG_3192 small.jpg
A side view picture of the pipe "handle" that raises and lowers the wheels:
IMG_3193 small.jpg
Finally, a picture of one of the two wood cams:
IMG_3194 small.jpg
It works well, and almost all the hardware is inside the base (except for the handle) to keep me from tripping over it or banging my ankle on it.
Here is the link to the youtube original post of the idea:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMdKdglWMHo
Steve
For my 18" bandsaw (Jet JWBS-18QT-3), I used the Jet Heavy-duty Mobile Base. I attached the bandsaw to 3/4" ply about 2'x2' in size, then dropped it into the base. It is solid during working and rolls easily when I need it to.
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Right on. I have a monster Delta/Rockwell 20" with cast iron variable speed gearbox and optional blade welder. This saw weights between 900-1000 lbs. The Jet Heavy Duty is the only commercial mobile base that gets the job done. I was amazed at how effortless and safe it was to push that sucker around my shop on that base.
I was so happy I picked up two more bases - one for my powermatic mortiser and used another on my parks planer. The outboard locking wheels work much better than that foot lever design on the cheaper models.
Rob:
I made it home pretty fast, there wasn't much traffic.
I love the bandsaw. It makes my old 12" Sears seem like a toy.
I already used it to resaw some 2x4s into angled backers for mounting crown moulding in several bedrooms. I had to cut about 100 linear feet and it went fast.
Steve
Glad to hear it Steve! My new band saw arrives tomorrow Grizzly G0513X2BF. I can't wait!