Care to post your article Jim for all of us to learn from?Originally Posted by Jim Koepke
Please.
Contributor
Care to post your article Jim for all of us to learn from?
Please.
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Member
From what I saw in the plans, the top and bottom back strechers can have their grooves end to end (in fact they are shown like that). Same for the rails that make up the side panels. Which only leaves the legs to deal with.
You could do two mortises, same width as plow plane blade, and as long as the front part of the skate. Then plow from the center out (yes I know one cut will be against the grain). Or you could just plane the groove all the way and plug as indicated.
/p
[OP]
Member
I'm with you Pedro the top and bottom stretchers are simple enough. The legs are the issue. I believe the only method I can use is the one you suggest. I could do it with a router plane if I had a 1/4" blade but alas, I do not. Thanks for looking. Anyone have a different technique that could have been used with the same result?
Member
Lee Valley has the 1/4" router blade for $15.
[OP]
Member
Such an evil suggestion what with the free shipping right now. There's no way that I can order only an 15$ bit lol
Member
seconded.
and thirded.
Contributor
It was actually posted over two years ago:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...the-Stanley-45
There are more details that I should clean up and make a new post if people need a better description. Maybe it should be cleaned up and submitted to a different publisher.
Here is an image showing a bead being cut in the middle of a piece:
Cutting Bead With Baten.jpg
Notice that the skates are set above the surface. The cam stop and a modification on the depth stop is being used to support the plane. It is being run against a batten on right hand side of the plane.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
[OP]
Member
Jim, thanks for your post. I believe this is a genius solution and one that a magazine should definitely publish. That way maybe it won't be lost in time again! Thanks!
Contributor
You are welcome and thanks for the kind words.
On my bench it is easy to set up two pieces to be done in tandem. Saves some time if you can batch process them.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
Warren makes a good point in that a stopped groove (or rebate) is probably used mainly in modern times. This would be simply because there are the means to do so easily now (in the form of a powered router). The problem, however, is not with the joint, per se, in other words, that a stopped groove could not be made with hand tools, but rather that it could not be done efficiently in a production or time-orientated situation. A through groove was a more efficient use of time. I would imagine that designs were limited by this method (in the same way that modern mechinery can limit designs). I do not see a problem with this joint being made with hand tools now (or then) if you are willing to go the extra mile.
I have made stopped rebates, one method being with a plough and router plane. Unlike Jim, mine sloped at the start and end as the plough was just used to rough out the waste. It was then completed with a fenced router plane. For short grooves, just mark with a cutting gauge and chisel/router out the waste. For a long groove (as under discussion), I would chop out the waste in the form of mortices the length of the skate to the blade (front and back, for clearance of chips) at either end, and then just plane out the entire length and to depth. In actuality, the only mortice required is at the foot of the stretcher, as the top end can be a through groove since this end will be hidden by the top panel of the case.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Last edited by Derek Cohen; 04-17-2015 at 10:16 PM.
Contributor
I was able to find the pictures I took several years ago from my first hand tool only project, a small tool cabinet. This series is from the door stiles IIRC. I chopped the mortice for the stiles first, then made the stopped groove. I started with the plow plane, then finished up sawing the sides and finished with a chisel. In the last photo you can see why I used the Record rather than the 45.
Of course, I was simply trying to duplicate what I would have done with powered tools. Now I would do a thru groove first, chop the mortice in the groove and use a haunched tenon.
I realize this is not the exact application that the OP needs. For that, an alternative to a stopped groove might be to just use a rabbet on the legs. Unless it is going to be seen from the back, then either the rabbet or thru groove with a piece glued in will never be noticed.
IMGP0048.jpgIMGP0049.jpgIMGP0050.jpgIMGP0052.jpgIMGP0017.jpg
Contributor
I believe the Chinese (Ming era) did it in a similar fashion to that which Mark illustrates;
The sides look like they were made so that the stretcher would be mortised first and that would give for for plowing the groove.
I see on a lot of Arts and Crafts and Early american it looks like they use stub feet or a plinth to accommodate this design feature.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Member
http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=2531 [nb: English "housing" = American "dado"; The same technique works for English "rebates" or American "rabbits." I can't remember if that gets mention in the video.]
Member
I think I have a picture of this on a blanket chest I made.^^^ let me see if I can find it.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote