Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Applicator for wipe on finish

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, IN
    Posts
    141

    Applicator for wipe on finish

    What type of Applicator do you guys use to do a wipe on finish? I like to use an oil urethane topcoat but have not found a good applicator that will not believe went behind. I have tried went freak lots of old T-shirts foam brushes bristle brushes quite a bit and all of them seem to leave some sort of lint. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Issaquah, Washington
    Posts
    1,320
    Blue shop towels, folded so the "tear off" seams are hidden.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,426
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill McNiel View Post
    Blue shop towels, folded so the "tear off" seams are hidden.
    Yep. No texture, lint free. I am partial to the Scott brand, the paper towels on a roll. Have a roll mounted on a paper towel holder in the shop.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Lake County, IL
    Posts
    147
    X3. Picked up the tip from members here, and it works great.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    Most people fail at wipe-on varnish by trying to leave a smooth even coat. Wipe-on should be applied like the kid wipes the table at the fast food joint. A 3'x4' table top should take a minute or less. You are wanting to get the surface wet; no puddle, no drips, no ridges, or streaks. a quick wipe with a wet but NOT dripping Scott towel is the easiest way to succeed. If it's not dry in an hour or less (excluding Waterlox) you are leaving too much varnish with your application technique.

    I too choose "Scott" brand I really like the name
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,768
    Same, Scott blue paper towels work great for me. Lint free, as Kent said. Use whatever technique to apply it works best for you. I can't get a uniform coat using the "like the kid wipes the table at the fast food joint" that others say works well, must just be me. I use even strokes from one end to the other. Put it in quickly but not rushing. Above all, do NOT go back over it after you've got it on and smoothed it out. I get streaks every time if I try to make it perfect. If you put it on with a wet but not dripping paper towel, as Scott said, it will self level in a few minutes, or at least the Arm-R-Seal I normally use will.

    John

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    I use Bounty "Select Size" white paper towels and have had good luck, and tear off a smaller section for applying oil finish to turnings.

  8. #8
    I'm partial to old bed sheets. I believe they are cotton broadcloth and have no lint if they're old enough. It's also what I use for a padding cloth for shellac.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  9. #9
    I use the blue shop towels too, but I don't care if the edges are ragged; they don't need to be hidden. In fact, you can use white regular kitchen paper towels for the first couple coats, which I suggest you flood on, then buff off.

    If you apply the subsequent coats as Scott suggests (don't lay down a thick coat; wipe it on so the surface looks slick and even but not glassy) then you won't have a surface that is thick enough to trap dust. Any lint, dust, etc will brush off before the next coat.

  10. I just tried these Micro Spun Towels from Rockler on my coffee table build using Arm R Seal.
    http://www.rockler.com/micro-spun-towels

    I have to say I'm pretty impressed although they are much more expensive than the blue paper towels. They left a very smooth finish. I also used t-shirt rags on a previous build and they also worked very well.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,426
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bochenek View Post
    I just tried these Micro Spun Towels from Rockler on my coffee table build using Arm R Seal.
    http://www.rockler.com/micro-spun-towels

    I have to say I'm pretty impressed although they are much more expensive than the blue paper towels. They left a very smooth finish. I also used t-shirt rags on a previous build and they also worked very well.
    THose look pretty neat. Had not seen them.

    THo - I gotta say - pitching a paper towel rather than cleaning and washing a specialty item has a big attraction to me........attention span thing, and all that..........
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923
    I doubt you meant to just pitch the paper towels, but this is a good place to emphasize that applicators--cloth or paper towels should not just be tossed because of the very real risk of spontaneous combustion. I spread the towels on a non-flammable surface and let them dry before putting them in the trash.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,426
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Schoene View Post
    I doubt you meant to just pitch the paper towels, but this is a good place to emphasize that applicators--cloth or paper towels should not just be tossed because of the very real risk of spontaneous combustion. I spread the towels on a non-flammable surface and let them dry before putting them in the trash.

    You are absolutely correct, Steve - should have been more careful with my choice of words. Nice save.

    Same here - I spread them out flat, let them dry overnight, and THEN I pitch them. Even when the only convenient surface is the driveway outside the shop door.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,944
    I use the Workforce 55 pack wiping cloths. I get them at HD or Lowes. Can't remember which. Lint free, and work better than the others I've used.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    North of Boston, MA
    Posts
    357
    I've used cheap microfiber from Harbor Freight. I cut it up into smaller pieces, which then requires some attention to get rid of crumbs along the cut edges, but it works great.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •