I tried this design from "wood goblets.com"
The design worked but there is a bad glue line on the other side of the cup. I glued up the second one with a different clamping technique.
I tried this design from "wood goblets.com"
The design worked but there is a bad glue line on the other side of the cup. I glued up the second one with a different clamping technique.
Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!
I like it, nicely done.
The stem seems a bit thicker than I might have done. I'll bet the pattern guided the design.
Tim
Last edited by Tim Boger; 04-26-2015 at 11:42 AM. Reason: typo
I agree, very nice. It's hard to line up segments in a spindle. I would change the bowls to more of a tulip shape, but that's just me.
I see you've found a new use for your router table.
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert Heinlein
"[H]e had at home a lathe, and amused himself by turning napkin rings, with which he filled up his house, with the jealousy of an artist and the egotism of a bourgeois." Gustave Flaubert, Madame Bovary
I really like the stem. A bit heavy, but shows the segmentation well. I think it would have been better to use more pieces for the outer layer though, eight rather than four.
Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).
I agree about the thickness of the stem. I have to choose whether I am going for design only or for practical use as a communion cup. Those little chalices in the background are designed for years of use in homes and hospitals so I opt for sturdiness in stem and in the details. If the segmented cup is for art, I definitely agree on the thinner stem, and would just enjoy whatever design appears.
Good idea Thom, and I would have to figure out an octagonal center cluster to built it on.
Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!
The center creates a square block. Cut blocks the same width for each side and additional blocks to fill in the corners instead of 'wrapping' the center with four wider pieces. Does make for more joints to cause problems, but I think creates a better appearance. Using wood the asme color as the dominant in the core would give a 'cross' when looked at from the top or bottom.
Another idea that might be worth trying is to start with a block the side of the finished blank and cut an even sized piece off of opposite faces leaving a center the same width as the core. Then cut the faces off the remaining pieces. Glue them back so that the grain is back the way the wood grew.
Alternately, turn the center round and drill out the blank and glue the round back in. That requires accurate turning and drilling for tight joints, but leaves people wondering how you did it. You would also loose part of the detail where the stem meets the base and bowl.
Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).
I especially like door #1.
Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!
Like this, Thom?
Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!
Can't tell for all the clamps LOL
Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).