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Thread: Waterstone/ceramic question--yet another

  1. #1

    Waterstone/ceramic question--yet another

    After rethinking my kiridashi thing, I realized that my sharpening is a little lopsided:
    Cerax 220 grit
    King stone (blue, don't know grit)
    King stone (red, don't know grit)
    Irregular Kyoto finish in stone from Hida tools (former imperial mine?)
    White UF spyderco stone.
    Some old DMT EZE lap stone (200 or 600 grit. Blue)

    What would you guys recommend for my setup?

    Mostly, I sharpen white steel or PM-V11. However, I'm thinking of getting HS steel blades for working rosewood and mahogany (guitars).

    -Matt

    Ps. Planning to buy a chisel or two from Stu.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Ps. Planning to buy a chisel or two from Stu.
    Many times people have spoken of Stu being a good person to consult about stone purchases. So many have expressed satisfaction with his service to their needs has me thinking the next time sharpening stones are on my list he will be the one to get my business.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
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    It's probably not what what you want to hear but recently I've switched to using nothing but DMT diamond stones and it works well for me. My set starts at 120 grit and moves through extra coarse, coarse 1200grit fine and 8000 grit and a final strop on mdf with green compound. They're all mounted on a piece of plywood, all are used dry except the 8000 which works best with a few drops of soapy water, they can sit on the bench and i just blow the dust off, no breaking or flattening and once broken in the scratch pattern is very consistent. All my water and oil stones are in a box on the shelf. If you'd like to try them, I'd suggest getting 8000 first and use it for honing a dull undamaged edge, you'll be pleasantly surprised how fast it works. ~$65 from Amazon

    Brian
    The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.

    The penalty for inaccuracy is more work

  4. #4
    I am guessing the King blue is a 220 girt green carbide and the red is 800/1000 if it is terra cotta colored. David Weaver said the Sigma II line is designed for hss.

  5. #5
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    I use Naniwa chosera 1000 then 3000 followed by a Shinden suita. I then buff the edge on a clean strop.

    here is my setup in action sharpening a Kiridashi used for grafting in bonsai.















    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 04-29-2015 at 8:50 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    If my hands could handle sharpening on stones, I would buy steel plates and diamond paste. Add a strop, and away you go.
    Paul

  7. #7
    some like multiple steps (that's me); others, larger gaps--both approaches work!! In fact, most all "systems" work, be it diamond, oil, sand paper, or water stones. If it works for you and you like it, keep it!!!!

    For me...320 Cerax followed typically by Sigma 1200, Chosera 3000, Sigma 10000. Sometimes I use a Chosera 600 or insert a Sigma 6000 following the 3k; but all said and done, 6k - 13k is all about level of fine honing/polishing. Don't get me wrong, a 13k edge is far superior in fine cut quality than a 6k, but there's little need for that difference when planing straight grain.

    Enjoy

  8. #8
    Thanks for the responses guys.
    It sounds like I need a 4k stone.

    Brian, you're sharpening on carpet? Wow!

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