Waterlox/Walnut

[Jerry Thompson]

I have two unopened cans of Waterlox Original. This summer I plan on making a blanket chest out of black walnut. I am slowly accumulating the lumber to prevent a sudden deep hole in my pocket.
Would I need to do anything besides wiping on the varnish? I plan on putting on several coats until it is pleasing to one's eye. Then after a 30 day or so cure time lightly rubbing it out.
I do not plan on using a grain filler. Is it probable I would get a different sheen in the grain?
I would like to hear from folks who have used Waterlox on walnut or from others that have other finishing ideas.
We made a Shaker 1840 clock from walnut for my daughter. She wanted it dark and I used garnet shellac and Transtint walnut dye. It was far too dark for my tastes.
Thank you

[Kent A Bathurst]

You are fine with routine finishing with the Wlox.

If I might add, though...........

I would not have used the dye - but it was at your "customer's" request.

I would, however, use the garnet shellac, or even go so far as to use orange dye. The effect on walnut is truly amazing. Try it on a scrap piece.

Then - varnish. I haven't used a filler, and it all comes out ducky.

Blanket chest with walnut frames..........garnet shellac and oil-based varnish. No filler. It was, however, waxed - hence the glare from the camera [plus lousy photography skills].


June 4 Misc 08.jpg

[Jerry Thompson]

I had failed to mention that I planed on trying orange dye. Your blanket chest looks great. I plan on doing something along the Shaker line and dovetailed case. I have to make a test chest (no pun) first using polpar. I have mixed up a dye that looks like cherry and I used Charles Neil's product to prevent blotching and the board looked great.
Thanks.

[Brent Ring]

I have done an entire dining room set with Waterlox and clear shellac. One thick coat of brushed shellac, sanded back, then 2-4 brushed coats of waterlox, and then 5-7 wiped. All on Walnut. I have loved it. The clear shellac really sealed and helped the Waterlox pop the walnut. Same finishing scheduled on a cherry dining set. Same wonderful results. For a good, durable finish on walnut - or anything else, I go to Waterlox.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I had failed to mention that I planed on trying orange dye.

You are gonna be amazed. Good for you. That walnut dye your previous "customer" required.............well, you executed the instructions is all I will say.

But - when you get to the actual project, you look at that bright orange stuff in the cup, the wiping rag in your hand, and the pucker factor pegs the meter........

Press on regardless..........

[Neal Clayton]

In general reddish finishes (of which Waterlox is one) and walnut get along very well together.

I would grain fill the walnut somehow, though, you don't appreciate how rough the porous grain is until you put a finish on it.

[Jerry Thompson]

Neal;
What grain filler would you use and would you use a filler that is already made for the walnut color?

[Steve Schoene]

best pore filler is the Sherwin-Williams Grain Filler,though it is only available in gallon cans last I knew. Old Masters also makes a good filler. What makes these two goods is a high proportion of Silex as the solid filler. The Silex a silica compound is a bit translucent, and most importantly shrinks very little. Behlen Por O Pac is probably easier to find, and works OK but shows quite a bit more shrinkage. I prefer to do my own tinting, using artists colors. You can go even
I suggest thinning the filler to the consistency of very heavy cream, using Naphtha. I also recommend letting the filler cure for about twice the time mentioned on the labels. If you apply top coats two soon you may have the filler eventually become a visible grey, which can only be fixed by stripping.