Need help filling knot holes on finished wood

[Robin Powlus]

My son-in-law and daughter built and stained a pine table. I told them I would fill several large cracks/holes (1/16" to 1/8"") in knot holes with epoxy, and spray on several coats of poly. After reading several articles I see that I should have filled and sanded the cracks/holes before staining. Sanding off the stain is not an option. Any suggestions to fill the holes? Can I fill now with epoxy (mixed with dark sawdust) and just try to get it level? The table is a rustic style, but not distressed.

[Brian Peters]

Well if you filled them with epoxy there is not much you can do for stain as if you had done it prior the stain wouldn't have taken well in those areas, just like if you left yellow glue. If you use/used a stainable wood filler like famowood all is good though. Other than that not sure, I cutout all knocks/cracks/defects in my work.

[Lee Schierer]

I add stain to wood filler to closely match the color of the knot. Then I fill the crack before sanding the area.

In your case you can still fill the crack, but will need to sand carefully so that you only sand the knot.

[Jerry Miner]

I think you've got two reasonable options:

1. Rethink the "Sanding off the stain is not an option." idea. If you want the tabletop smooth and level, you will need to sand it and re-stain.

2. Mask the area around the fill zone, and fill to just below the surface (I would use black tinted epoxy)---the cracks will be there, but filled, mostly.

[Robin Powlus]

2. Mask the area around the fill zone, and fill to just below the surface (I would use black tinted epoxy)---the cracks will be there, but filled, mostly.

I believe #2 is my best option as I can live with a little dip where I fill, unless someone has a better idea.

[glenn bradley]

I too have used dye in epoxy. I try to match the color spectrum of the knot but, In dark woods like black walnut, I just use black. The area around the repair would have to be repaired like any other damaged finish for an invisible fix.

[Wade Lippman]

You can try. I have never gotten epoxy in without making a mess, but maybe you can.
Personally I would plan on refinishing the table.

[Mark Wooden]

Apply blue masking tape tight to the cracks a couple of layers deep; fill with the epoxy to the top of the tape and when it's mostly hard, pull the tape and carefully shave it off with a sharp chisel.

[Robin Powlus]

Apply blue masking tape tight to the cracks a couple of layers deep; fill with the epoxy to the top of the tape and when it's mostly hard, pull the tape and carefully shave it off with a sharp chisel.

Sounds good.

[Robin Powlus]

masked with blue tape, then I filled the bottom half of the cracks with epoxy mixed with dry coffee grounds (read this somewhere), then immediately removed the tape. Made a nice dark fill. I got some epoxy smears on the table, but it wiped right off with acetone (nail polish remover), and the acetone did not take off the finish. I'm considering self leveling epoxy to finish filling them (good idea??).

[Yonak Hawkins]

I too have used dye in epoxy.

glenn, is this liquid dye ? Do you find the epoxy dries hard afterward ?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Yonak.....Turners also use powered dyes. I typically use crushed instant coffee crystals for a dark dye for epoxy when I am filling cracks.

[Allan Speers]

You can try. I have never gotten epoxy in without making a mess, but maybe you can.
Personally I would plan on refinishing the table.

This, many times over !

Epoxy is virtually guaranteed to goes where you did not tell it to.

Plus, if you sand the top surface of the epoxy, along with the wood, then add a finish, there is a better chance of everything looking cohesive. Plain epoxy cures a little too much like plastic for my taste, it needs to be gone over,if the cracks & holes are large.

[Mike Schuch]

Apply blue masking tape tight to the cracks a couple of layers deep; fill with the epoxy to the top of the tape and when it's mostly hard, pull the tape and carefully shave it off with a sharp chisel.

Yes, this is the best way to go. All epoxy shrinks as it cures to one degree or another. A perfectly level uncured epoxy patch will have indentations in it when it is cured. I use a razor blade instead of a chisel but I imagine a sharp chisel would also work well.