+1 on belt sander is not a woodworking tool
+1 on belt sander is not a woodworking tool
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
As much as I respect your right to hold this opinion, I disagree. One uses what tools one has in the best way one can. I understand the aesthetic pleasure of leisurely setting up in the sunshine and using a block plane to trim up box-joints. I'm a production shop and can't afford the time to do so.
There are those (I'm not one of them) who question whether laser engraving is woodworking - I'm sure you have a different opinion on that particular subject.
The above disagreement aside - I don't see anywhere in your post an answer to the OP's question - IE, how do you clean up your box joints?
I love mankind. It's people I can't stand.
Bill,
I have tried all of the sanders I have, not all listed but the low angle block plane slices the end grain fibers effortlessly. Great results, and you can sneak up on the finish.
Lightly sand with a fine grit paper.
Ellery Becnel
So it looks like I need to get a low angle block plane and learn to use it.
I did forget to say I have tried the Ridgid sander and it did work ok but on smaller boxes the larger ones are not that good on it.
Working with end grain is just a pain....
Thanks all of you for your input, it always helps to get input from the guys that do it.
I guess I'm different. I use a flush trim router bit in my router table to get them close and then finish them with a ROS. I've tried several other methods and this works best for me. Oh, I make quite a few boxes with box joints, 7 different sizes so far this year. My preferred box joint jig is an IBox.
Charley
I only build small items with box joints. A long time ago, I bought a dinky little table top combination oscillating spindle sander and oscillating belt sander from Ridgid Tools. It does a really fine job for its intended purpose. As I recall, it was dirt cheap by woodworking equipment standards. Unfortunately, it isn't large enough to do chests and other big items. If the box is bigger, I use a kit built V-belt drum sander. This technique requires a little more skill but I can get the results I am looking for.
After I finish a box, it really isn't possible to distinguish whether it was belt sanded, drum sanded or trimmed with a block plane.
Last edited by Art Mann; 05-26-2015 at 9:58 PM.
Way back when I was in highschool our woodworking instructor showed us the proper way to painstakingly smooth out our box joints with a plane. I smuggled my box home and hit it with my fathers belt sander. Turned out perfect in a couple of minutes!
If you like making the fingers on you box joints excessively long shave them down to less than 1/64" by running the box through the table saw or RAS. You could almost finish them by hand sanding once you have them that close.
Last edited by Mike Schuch; 05-27-2015 at 2:51 AM.
I finish them with my ROS and get them close using my crosscut sled on on my table saw. I have had mixed success with the block plane because it is difficult to cut squarely from outside to in which you need to do to eliminate blowout and the block plane doesn't play well with baltic birch or even pine IMO. If you do use the block plane then it also helps to go with the plane skewed a bit for the outside to in cuts
I use a belt sander. I have 3. I grew up using them. They have their place. Anybody that badmouths them don't know how to use them. I badmouth planes because I don't know how to sharpen or use one and I don't care to learn. That being said this router jig looks promising.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...01&fr2=piv-web
Cary,
Your link reminded me that this can be done with the CRB7 router jig from M Power Tools. With the lower base option, it is very close in design to the picture in your link. I have a new CRB7 jig and I hadn't thought to try to do this with it yet, but I will on the next batch of boxes.
Thanks for reminding me.
Charley
Last edited by Charles Lent; 05-27-2015 at 9:17 AM.
Most of the time I use the ROS unless I get the ends protruding too far, then I use a block plane to get them close and finish with the ROS.
Cody
Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln
Got a cpl edge sanders runnin different grits......can do a medium bx in a minute or so?
Dust extraction is very important on any "sanding" ops.A finely tuned system,which starts right at the machines hood/pickup......is like someone turning a lite switch on in a dark rm.The heat buildup on the belt and the product is what ultimately is slowing the process down.We inject shop air(via 1/4 refridge lines)right at the belt on certain exotics.Have even run them wet(spray bottles).
That was a funny comment about belt sanders not being WW'ing tools.