Oneway Coring System

[Dave Fritz]

I'm confused. According to the specs. on Craft Supply's website the different cutters produce bowls in these sizes:

• Knife Coring Specifications:
• No. 1: Depth 3-7/8"; Size 9-1/2" to 11-1/2" dia.
• No. 2: Depth 5"; Size 12" to 14" dia.
• No. 3: Depth 6-1/4"; Size 14-1/2" to 16-1/2" dia.
• No. 4: Depth 7-1/2"; Size 16-3/4" to 18" dia.

The instructional DVD from Oneway says this:
No. 1: Size 5" to 9.5"
No. 2: Size 9.5" to 12.25"
No. 3: Size 13.5" to 15"
No. 4: Size 15.5" to 17.5"
Anyone help me out? Thanks.
Dave Fritz

[Dok Yager]

Dave, my neighbor has one and I have used it several times. The bowl sizes are close to what the DVD says they are. You can vary them slightly by going deeper or shallower on the setup.

[Bob Hamilton]

Hi, Dave:
I would say the Oneway numbers are much closer to reality. I am pretty sure that the #1 knife set won't cut a larger diameter than ~10" and it will certainly cut smaller than 9 1/2". I don't know where Craft Supply came up with those numbers.

Take care
Bob

[Dave Fritz]

Thank you gentlemen. I've emailed Craft Supply and asked where they got their numbers from.
Dave Fritz

[Reed Gray]

I had to go out to the shop to check... There are 4 blades with the system. Each is a section of a circle. The radii of them are as follows: 8 3/8 inch, 7 1/4 inch, 6 1/8 inch, and 5 1/2 inch, or pretty close to that. So, if you want a perfect hemisphere, and are set up with the pivot exactly in the center, you can cut a core of that radius all the way off. So, plus or minus a little bit from there. As you move the mounting plate to one side or the other, you can run into binding problems. The support finger and blade are pretty tall, and fit excellently into their specific arcs, but when you move it to the sides, you end up with kind of a square peg in a round hole, and may have to move the mounting plate a bit to open up the cut. If you are removing a larger core, you can cut it down till there is a short tenon in the center, and then break or pry that tenon off. So, 8 3/8 inch radius can take off a 16 3/4 inch diameter core. If you cut bigger than that, say 18 inch, you will have to bread off about a 1 1/4 inch tenon. Not too difficult. If you try to break off a 2 inch plus tenon, that is a lot more difficult, and you can lose your mount/tenon/recess.

Hope this explains it a little better.

robo hippy

[Dave Fritz]

Thank you Reed. I did run into the situation you described. Following the Craft Supply information I realized the cutter would soon come through the bottom so I moved the plate a little closer to the bowl. Well from then on the support finger just wouldn't fit - round peg, square hole indeed.

Do you core from the outside in or the inside out?

Dave Fritz

[Reed Gray]

Since I turn green to final thickness, I take the big bowl core first, then finish turn it, then turn the core, and repeat. I use the McNaughton though. It is much faster than the Oneway. When I was learning how to use the Oneway (I have demoed the 3 coring systems a couple of times, so had to be some what proficient with all of them) I made plywood spacers for setting the mounting plate. They were set up for leaving 1/2 inch of thickness in the bottom of the cored bowl. I am sure you can make some sort of thing to do the same if you are coring the smaller ones first. Wood cut had a nifty laser pointer that worked off a drilled hole in the pivot center, and two locations for the laser to match each blade, vertical post up, and arm out with the pointer in it, so you would position the laser where you wanted it to end up and that set your distance and the jig. Wouldn't be too difficult to do that with the Oneway.

robo hippy

[Dave Fritz]

Reed,

Thanks so much. I'll look into the Wood cut laser set up.

I think the plywood spacers would really makes things simple and quicker. Right now I'm not trying to get super thin because I'm going to twice turn. Hopefully I get better use from each blank and minimize the shavings a little.

Dave Fritz