Cast Iron Pulleys - Quality Differences?

[Allan Speers]

I need to buy a few pulleys, and I'm flummoxed by the choices.

I know that cast iron comes in many levels of quality, such as the fineness of the grain, consistency, etc and also that how well a pulley is balanced can make a significant difference. But what does this mean to the consumer?

For instance, I can buy a new Chinese 2AK41 off Ebay for $22, delivered. I can buy a Browning for about $100, delivered. Then there are the ones in-between, like Martin and TB Woods.
I can also buy an "almost correct" Taiwanese pulley from Grizzly for about $25. A Taiwanese / ISO 9000 pulley is probably fine, though the exact diameter isn't available.

The thought of a Browning makes me all warm & fuzzy, ("Ah, good old American, fine-grained cast iron!") - except Browning pulleys are now made in Mexico. They probably come off the exact same assembly line as the Martin pulleys, and a Martin 2AK42 is $25 less expensive. (And Leeson motors are now made in China, but I digress ....)
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Ughh.

I haven't heard any stories of offshore pulleys exploding,

and how hard can it be to static-balance a pulley? Can one do this themselves, just to be safe?


Still, the thought of putting a Chinese pulley on my machine .....

[Rod Sheridan]

It's not "hard" to make a good pulley, it's just that consumers today are unwilling to pay for the cost of anything well made.

Obviously that's a generalization, however that seems to be what drives supply today.

I would start with the mid range pulley and return it if it isn't OK.

I will admit to buying Browning sheaves myself..........Rod.

[J.R. Rutter]

Have you looked at split taper mounts? If available for your application, that would probably be the smoothest running option. The taper locks the sheave concentrically to the shaft instead of relying on a perfect press fit.

[Allan Speers]

JR, could you explain split taper in more detail? - even if it doesn't apply to me, someone else might benefit from the info.

FWIW, I need a 7/8" bore. I've seen split-taper sheaves for sale, but don't understand them. I assume you need a special motor shaft, no?

[Brad Patch]

I need to buy a few pulleys, and I'm flummoxed by the choices.

I know that cast iron comes in many levels of quality, such as the fineness of the grain, consistency, etc and also that how well a pulley is balanced can make a significant difference. But what does this mean to the consumer?

For instance, I can buy a new Chinese 2AK41 off Ebay for $22, delivered. I can buy a Browning for about $100, delivered. Then there are the ones in-between, like Martin and TB Woods.
I can also buy an "almost correct" Taiwanese pulley from Grizzly for about $25. A Taiwanese / ISO 9000 pulley is probably fine, though the exact diameter isn't available.

The thought of a Browning makes me all warm & fuzzy, ("Ah, good old American, fine-grained cast iron!") - except Browning pulleys are now made in Mexico. They probably come off the exact same assembly line as the Martin pulleys, and a Martin 2AK42 is $25 less expensive. (And Leeson motors are now made in China, but I digress ....)
------------------------

Ughh.

I haven't heard any stories of offshore pulleys exploding,

and how hard can it be to static-balance a pulley? Can one do this themselves, just to be safe?


Still, the thought of putting a Chinese pulley on my machine .....

I would avoid at all costs cheap sheaves. You MAY get a good product from China, or Taiwan but the odds are against it. Suck it up and buy quality and you won't be sorry.

[J.R. Rutter]

JR, could you explain split taper in more detail? - even if it doesn't apply to me, someone else might benefit from the info.

FWIW, I need a 7/8" bore. I've seen split-taper sheaves for sale, but don't understand them. I assume you need a special motor shaft, no?

There is a sleeve with a very slight taper that slips onto the shaft. It is slit so that when the sheave with matching taper slips over it and gets tightened to the sheave with bolts, the inner taper grips the shaft tightly and the sheave is centered very accurately so that it runs with zero wobble. There are options to fit different motor shafts, including standard sizes and keyways.

[Bradley Gray]

I have a number of split sheave pulleys - all Browning - All made about 30 miles from here in Maysville Kentucky. Split sheave pulleys are sold in 2 pieces - the sheave is sold by shaft diameter and the pulley by width number of belts and diameter. The sheave and pulley bore are tapered and are drawn together with 3 machine bolts. When you need to remove the pulley you move the 3 bolts to holes that are threaded in the sheave instead of the body and you have a built in puller.

[David Kumm]

You don't say what machine the pulley is going on. I much prefer the split taper- much easier to remove. I'd also look at Masco. They are not Browning but generally pretty good quality. Probably sourced all over the place but a decent value. Dave

[Mike Schuch]

When I replaced the motor on my Powermatic 65 cabinet saw the proper pulley with the proper grove spacing wasn't available. I replaced both the arbor and motor pulleys with cheap (probably Chinese) split taper pulleys from Surplus Center. They are nice pulleys and very smooth. I really appreciate the self centering design of the split taper pulleys as they seem to eliminate the micro concentricity issues of conventional pulleys. I wouldn't... but they grab the shaft so tight that you could probably run them without a key.

[Bruce Wrenn]

+1 for Surplus Center. Their shipping rates are CRAZY though.

[Michael W. Clark]

A lot of the Martin products are made in USA. I've been to one of their foundries in Texas to do a dust collection study.

If you can get a Martin Sprocket and Gear catalogue, there is a lot of good engineering information in there.

Dodge PT used to make, maybe still do, the taperlock and QD hubs. I liked QD, but taperlock is good too and less expensive. Motion Industries and Kaman are sources or any industrial power transmission distributor.

Although, with only a 7/8" shaft, you may be money ahead on a better pulley with key and set screw locking than buying hub and pulley combo. You still want a good pulley, even with a hub.

The Browning and Dodge books/catalogues are great for this if you get into it much or like looking at these components for ideas.

[Jerry Bruette]

JR, could you explain split taper in more detail? - even if it doesn't apply to me, someone else might benefit from the info.

FWIW, I need a 7/8" bore. I've seen split-taper sheaves for sale, but don't understand them. I assume you need a special motor shaft, no?

Split taper sheaves will fit any motor shaft.

They come in two kinds, a QD bushing and matching sheave or Taper Lock bushing and matching sheave.
The bushing has an outside taper that goes into a matching taper in the sheave, the bushing is tightened into the sheave which in turn reduces the diameter in the bushing and tightens it onto the shaft.
You can go to the Martin, Woods, or even the McMaster-Carr websites to learn more about sizing

[Dick Strauss]

I've used Masko (Baldor) brand CI pulleys for multiple projects. They are heavier castings and have better machining than the Grizzly ones (DAMHIKT). My machinist buddy was very impressed with their quality! I buy them from Electric Motor Site at very reasonable rates. They are also very helpful and quick to ship from Wisconsin. They have split taper pulleys starting at about $20 for 3" pulley and taper bushing. They also have step pulleys up to 5 steps. I've ordered from them several times and would suggest them to friends here.

http://www.electricmotorsite.com/

[Ed Labadie]

As has been said, there are "QD" and taperlock bushing designs. Browning also makes their own version of the "QD" bushing, as well as the real one.

Their version does NOT interchange with a "QD"

Ed

[Dennis Ford]

Another vote for Surplus Center sheaves & hubs, they are made in China but the several I got were well made. I MIGHT spring for Browning if perfect balance and concentric was critical ( high speed and belt load) but be more likely to avoid a design like that.