Wiring a 220 outlet to a sub-panel

[Steve Kinnaird]

I have been reading up on what is required to run a sub-panel to the workshop.
The bar at the bottom of the panel that connects the Neutral & the Ground must be removed in the sub-panel to separate them.

So the Grizzly 17" Band saw that I am getting show the 2 hots and the ground going to a 6-15 Plug
6-15 Plug.jpg
So in the past I understood that I could pair up the Neutral & the Ground, but that puts them back together, where the sub-panel separated them.
Confused.png

[Mike Henderson]

I'm not sure I fully understand but you don't need the neutral on a 240V outlet - Just the two hots and ground.

There are some outlets that include the neutral (so you can get 120V as well as 240V) but those will have four pins on the plug.

Don't tie the ground and neutral together at the plug - just leave the neutral out.

Mike

[Steve Kinnaird]

Thanks Mike.
The time that an electrician had me pair up the Neutral & Ground was a dryer outlet from a main panel.
We went from a 4 prong plug to a 3 prong.

Appreciate the help.

[Gerald Hynes]

To my knowledge a neutral should never be bonded to ground anywhere except at the main panel. All subsequent sub panels and outlets should maintain isolation between the two.

[Julie Moriarty]

The only time the neutral and ground are bonded (tied together, paired up, etc) is at the service entrance. That is, where the power first enters a building.

Steve, that so-called electrician who told you to wire the ground and neutral together should have his license revoked, if he had one.

For your sub panel. remove the bond between the ground and neutral bus. Run (2) hots and (1) neutral and (1) ground from your main panel to the new sub panel. Terminate the (2) hots at the hot lugs or main breaker in the sub panel, the neutral to the neutral bus and the ground to the ground bus. If the sub panel doesn't have a ground bus, you can purchase one separately. When you install it, mount it to the case of the sub panel (the metal enclosure) with machine screws. If there aren't tapped holes in the case, drill and tap new holes in the sub panel case to fit your ground bus. Make sure the mounting screws are tight and that the paint on the panel case is removed where the bus mounts on the case.

If you are pulling all black wire, wrap a piece of white tape on either end of the neutral wire and a piece of green tape on either end of the ground wire. For extra safety, wrap black tape on either end of the hots, too. Do this before pulling in the wire. If you're pulling the wire off a reel, just tape one end and mark the reels. Make sure you tape the wires before cutting them off the reels. When you're done terminating, the wires at both ends should be clearly marked so there is no confusion as to which is which, should someone come back to work on the panel later.

[glenn bradley]

To my knowledge a neutral should never be bonded to ground anywhere except at the main panel. All subsequent sub panels and outlets should maintain isolation between the two.

That's how its done in residential California.

[Steve Kinnaird]

The only time the neutral and ground are bonded (tied together, paired up, etc) is at the service entrance. That is, where the power first enters a building.

Steve, that so-called electrician who told you to wire the ground and neutral together should have his license revoked, if he had one.

For your sub panel. remove the bond between the ground and neutral bus. Run (2) hots and (1) neutral and (1) ground from your main panel to the new sub panel. Terminate the (2) hots at the hot lugs or main breaker in the sub panel, the neutral to the neutral bus and the ground to the ground bus. If the sub panel doesn't have a ground bus, you can purchase one separately. When you install it, mount it to the case of the sub panel (the metal enclosure) with machine screws. If there aren't tapped holes in the case, drill and tap new holes in the sub panel case to fit your ground bus. Make sure the mounting screws are tight and that the paint on the panel case is removed where the bus mounts on the case.

If you are pulling all black wire, wrap a piece of white tape on either end of the neutral wire and a piece of green tape on either end of the ground wire. For extra safety, wrap black tape on either end of the hots, too. Do this before pulling in the wire. If you're pulling the wire off a reel, just tape one end and mark the reels. Make sure you tape the wires before cutting them off the reels. When you're done terminating, the wires at both ends should be clearly marked so there is no confusion as to which is which, should someone come back to work on the panel later.

Thanks Julie.
I was able to get different color #3 to run. (Black, White & Red) and Green for the #4 ground wire.

[Steve Meliza]

250.140 does allow connecting 4 wire devices to 3 wire outlets in a very limited set of circumstances, certainly nothing that allows changing a 4 prong outlet to a 3 prong. Moot point though as your bandsaw doesn't need or use a neutral wire so use a 3 prong outlet like the 6-15.

[Allan Speers]

250.140 does allow connecting 4 wire devices to 3 wire outlets in a very limited set of circumstances, certainly nothing that allows changing a 4 prong outlet to a 3 prong. Moot point though as your bandsaw doesn't need or use a neutral wire so use a 3 prong outlet like the 6-15.

FWIW, it should be noted that (AFAIK) this only applies to the device itself, not the outlet nor an outlet extension. For instance, most modern clothes washer-dryers are 4-wire, but come with an optional 3-wire hook-up so homeowners can use existing, older sockets.