More like buying a new car and can't figure out how to set the stations on the radio without reading the manual or fiddling with the buttons.Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
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More like buying a new car and can't figure out how to set the stations on the radio without reading the manual or fiddling with the buttons.
Member
First rule of woodworking: Make no assumptions that the gauge is set accurately. Confirm for yourself. If you don't want to adjust your tooling, you might want to reconsider your hobby.
Jason Beam
Sacramento, CA
beamerweb.com
Contributor
Mark
Festool stands behind their stuff, so I wouldn't have any hesitation sending it back and having them do the adjustment for you. If nothing else, ask them for a decal to replace after you make the adjustment yourself, if you decide to go that route. You paid lot of $$$$, and you want it to look correct.
I would venture to say that just about all wood working related machines require adjustments from time to time, some pretty significant. The machines operate at somewhat high speeds, and are usually spinning some type of a mass to perform their function. With this comes vibration and things get loose with time, it's going to happen. Once you get more immersed in the hobby, you'll get more comfortable making these minor tweaks.
I've taken brand new machines completely apart, reworked mating faces, replaced crappy fasteners, changed out all the bearings, machined new pieces, and modified the design of certain parts, before I even used the machine. I find it a challenge to take a somewhat inexpensive machine and make it work much better. It's child's play for me and I enjoy doing it, but not every one does. That's understandable.
Get ahold of Festool, get an RMA, and send the saw back and let them do the adjustment for you. There's nothing wrong with that.
As a word of advice though;
Never trust that laser, or any preset marking reference device, on any machine, explicitly. Always verify it.
Nothing beats a set of quality machine rules.
Last edited by Mike Cutler; 07-04-2015 at 6:21 AM.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
As others have said, some in a more supportive spirit than others, our tools are vary personal. Even if a tool (any tool) is set perfectly to factory standards, I may like the tension just a little lower or the table waxed, of a different handle position. In many cases we tend to set our tools to our preferences rather than adapt our methods to the tool.
I have had large machines arrive ready-to-go out of the crate but, they eventually got a little care and feeding to optimize them for my use. I have also gotten machines that required quite a bit of care and feeding just to get then ready to perform the initial operations. I think the point is that some adjustment to a new tool is not out of the ordinary; the degree of effort is certainly an arguable point.
It would not surprise me if the Festool's lasers were 'generally' set during assembly knowing that the final adjustments are part of the initial machine setup. The one machine I have with laser guides had the laser alignment as an assembly step in the manual.
P.s. As others have mentioned, many types of work requires a level of accuracy that makes the laser useless for anything other than getting in the ball park. I would not stress over it too much but, that's just me.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
Hello Mike , just a thought did you clamp your stock?? I have had the saw pull the stock and move it off the cut line. A dowel is difficult to hold particularly with small diameters. I do not own a Kapex but would sure love to have one . It seems that Festool has not met your expectations perhaps you should take them up on their 30 day full refund offer .
Member
Never ever buy a jointer if the laser adjustment is too troublesome for you. It can take a half of a day to get a jointer adjusted properly, even if you're a "pro".
Member
Thank you.
The thing about the lasers is that where they are set is a matter of personal preference that varies from woodworker to woodworker. So sending it to Lebanon, IL for recalibration won't necessarily suit your personal preferences. Some woodworkers want their lasers just outside the blade, some inside, and some for the blade to slice down the center of them. Only you know exactly where and how you want them set.
One word of caution if you run through the other calibration procedures; don't over-calibrate. The procedures give ultra-accurate numbers, and many new owners tend to tweak a saw that was already accurate. Trying to calibrate a miter down to 0.001 degree is down in the realm where simply moving your hand or shifting your body weight will skew the result.
Edit: Also, don't get too hung up on making a zero-clearance throat plate. Unlike a tablesaw where the ZCI will reduce tearout, for a miter saw, all it does is prevent tiny offcuts from falling under the turntable. I'm still using the same ZCI I built for the manual, and that is approaching 7 years old now.
Last edited by Rick Christopherson; 07-04-2015 at 11:41 AM.
Contributor
You are delusional. Don't mean that as an insult, just that you are not facing reality
I have spent a couple hundred grand over the years on tools and can not think of one with moving parts that did not need a tweak when at my shop. Its part of the process, embrace it. Learn how to adjust your laser, because at some point in the future you will need to do it again. Its not broken.
Larry
Guest
Well, I think Mike has been beat up enough. Calibrating the lasers should be a fairly easy procedure thanks to Rick (his manuals are incredibly appreciated).
I have only 3 Festools, TS75, Domino 500 and Carvex.
For my TS75, I removed the faceplate and squared the blade vertically (not related to toe-in) to a cutting surface adjusting the 2 set screws. Made a noticeable improvement. Wasn't an issue at all and now it's set for the long haul. But in no way was it set correctly from the factory.
On the Domino 500 the adjustable fence can easily shift out of square or whatever angle you set if the lock down lever can't swing enough to tighten down hard. Many users experience this. The lever screw must be loosened, the lever reseated slightly at a new angle and the screw retightened. It's all about the available arc space and reaching full lock down.
The Carvex is a very cool jigsaw but not without quirks and minor limitations. The angle foot is really designed better for edge cutting, because it does not permit enough platform for cutting in the middle of pieces, only half the foot makes contact. The angle foot goes against the design of all other manufacturers' designs historically. While annoying, it's still a pretty cool design for what it can do. For the barrel grip jigsaw, the placement of the green power switches are not ergonomically correct. They are way out of reach from a normal handhold. That to me is more of safety issue.
These anecdotes serve to show that spending money and more money than other tools cost, does not guarantee flawlessness. Tools are made by humans, designed and built by humans. Perfection does not exist. Learning to adjust things to suit yourself is a lifelong necessity in the world of hobby or professional woodworking.
If you haven't yet joined the FOG, Festool Owners Group forum, it may serve you well too.
And again a thank you to Rick. His supplemental manuals are the first thing I download after buying a Festool. Far more informational than the included manuals.
Last edited by John Schweikert; 07-04-2015 at 1:21 PM.
Member
I am almost positive that it states right in the manual that one of the lasers is aligned dead on, the other is supposed to be adjusted by the end user, though I could be wrong.
Contributor
[QUOTE=John Schweikert;2439533]Well, I think Mike has been beat up enough. Calibrating the lasers should be a fairly easy procedure thanks to Rick (his manuals are incredibly appreciated).
I have only 3 Festools, TS75, Domino 500 and Carvex.
For my TS75, I removed the faceplate and squared the blade vertically (not related to toe-in) to a cutting surface adjusting the 2 set screws. Made a noticeable improvement. Wasn't an issue at all and now it's set for the long haul. But in no way was it set correctly from the factory.
John, not to hijack the thread, but I have the TS75 and now you have me intrigued about to check mine for plumb/ square. Any directions would me appreciated. Thank you, patrick
Member
cant remember a machine that didnt need adjusted when i got it from a cheap chopsaw to a kapex to a sawstop bandsaw 5000 dollar sander everythig needs to be adjusted when new and every now and then just part of the game
Member
The procedure for the TS75 EQ is the same as the older TS55 EQ (not the new REQ). It's covered in the previous manual. They are ALL located here: http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/
One thing to consider, though, is that your guide rails have foam "grip" strips. Because these can be compressed, and may vary from short cuts, long cuts, and different rails; you probably don't need to get too picky with a calibration unless you have a specific cut that must be dead perfect.
Contributor
Rick, thank you very much. I appreciate the help/direction. Patrick
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