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Thread: Fret Saw Really Needed for Dovetails?

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    My experience was the same on my first try. Though the quality of my dovetail joint improved slightly. After about four tries, my sawing with a fret/coping saw improved. Now for through dovetails it is faster for me to saw out the waste.

    The moral of the story may be that sometimes, once is not enough.

    jtk

    Well put.
    I am struggling to think of a single example of a hand tool or technique that I was successful at on the first try.
    "For me, chairs and chairmaking are a means to an end. My real goal is to spend my days in a quiet, dustless shop doing hand work on an object that is beautiful, useful and fun to make." --Peter Galbert

  2. #32
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    ~ Do not seek to follow in the footsteps of the men of old; seek what they sought.

  3. #33
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    Chopping through 1/2" material with a reference, like Frank shows, is an excellent way to do the work. I deviate from that approach when the material size increases, which at some point it becomes a lot faster to saw the waste.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #34
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    Now, Paul Sellers does not address DT methods in this blog, BUT he does dispel the notion that one needs and über pricey coping saw: http://paulsellers.com/2014/11/copin...ws-and-blades/
    Maurice

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Zach and George-
    I'm intrigued. I find chopping fatiguing and bad on my back and elbows. I am clearly doing it wrong. I cannot imagine chopping out all that waste with a chisel. Clearly, I am missing something on the technique. Do you by any chance have a video (or know of one) where you are chopping out some waste? I know enough to know that efficient placement of the right chisel can make all the diff. But for the life of me, these chopping cuts are painful.

    Thx in advance.
    The fatigue and discomfort may be due to working at the wrong height. One should always try to work in a position that is comfortable and not demanding of their body.

    When chopping dovetails my lightest mallet is often used. Light taps with a sharp chisel at ~30º bevel. A bit of waste is removed from one side with the end of the pins or tails left. Then the work is flipped and the chopping is continued from the other side. The ends of the pins or tails that was left is now supporting the waste from the underside.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Voigt View Post
    Well put.
    I am struggling to think of a single example of a hand tool or technique that I was successful at on the first try.
    This is undoubtedly true but I already know how to chop and see no need to learn how to cope, especially since I am unfamiliar with any use of this tool in this manner in the period. It works for some people and not others. No big deal!

    Prashun, I don't have a video, but I do have this picture of my chopping dovetails at the DIA earlier this year. Work height makes all the difference in the world, and please take note of my sophisticated work holding method...

    chopping.jpg
    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  7. #37
    Here is my suggestion for avoiding back and arm pain. Note upright posture, short handled mallet held near head, holding chisel by the handle. Too much bending over causes problems over the long term. You want a relaxed posture.
    roubo mortising.jpeg

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