Scrub Plane Iron Adjustment

[Jules Dominguez]

I just received a Lee Valley Scrub Plane (photo attached) and tried it out on some scrap wood. While it's very nice in all other respects, I found it awkward to adjust the plane iron with any degree of accuracy in making a small move from the current setting to a new one, up or down. Unless I'm missing something (always possible, sometimes likely), adjusting the iron entails 1. holding the plane so that you can see the projection of the iron from the sole, 2. loosening the thumbscrew without inadvertently moving or allowing the iron to move, then 3. moving the iron by hand to make the adjustment, then 4. re-tightening the screw, again without inadvertently moving the iron before it's locked in place. I found I needed at least three hands to do this, and I only have two, so I ended up making a lot of trial and error adjustments after losing my frame of reference by inadvertently moving the iron.
I did a work-around by setting the plane on my tablesaw, and using playing cards under it to control the depth of the iron against the tabletop. This worked fairly well, with the qualification that one playing card more or less in the stack makes a significant difference in the depth of the iron. Note paper would allow smaller adjustments.
Any suggestions for a better way? Derek, are you there? You said in your review that you used a mallet on downward adjustments, but I don't think I could do that with any accuracy.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Jules,

A scrub isn't something which calls for fine adjustments. I shoot for the maximum depth I can easily control/push through the wood. About a 1/16" or an 1/8" or more of projection depending on the wood.

Really. If I do want to lessen the cut a marginal amount, I usually just hold the plane body in my right hand, sole against the palm, with my fingers wrapped around to hold the sides of the blade. I use the left hand's fingers to loosen the bolt and move the iron and retighten. The bolt is loosened just enough to move the blade, not so much that it would slide out if I tilted the plane.

For deepening the cut, I use a small brass mallet and tap the end of the blade. But the same "technique" for setting the depth as I use for lessening the depth would work.

It's a tool for rough removal of wood.

From LV's web site:
Blade Adjustment

The nature of the work performed by the scrub plane does not warrant a blade adjustment mechanism. You will find that the required adjustments can be readily achieved manually. Lightly clamp the blade with the lever cap knob – hard enough to hold it in position but loose enough to be moved by hand. Flip the plane to a sole-up position, then sight along the sole to ensure the blade edge is centered. Advance or retract it (push or pull the blade) as required. Clamp fully and take a test cut.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jules

Mike has it right (except I use my right hand where he uses his left, and vice versa).

I did mention in my review that a fine adjustment mechanism would be nice, and I still feel this way. More so for retracting the blade because a mallet works OK to increase blade projection.

But note that this does not mean that a scrub is used in a delicate way - when hogging set it for the maximum cut you can take in a particular timber. Reduce this if you are getting excessive breakout. You only want finer cuts when trimming, such as when removing high spots. I find it easy enough to loosen the cap screw just enough that the blade will move when tapped - not enough that the blade will move with its own weight. Try and extend it by about 1/32" at a time.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jules Dominguez]

OK. I guess I slightly misinterpreted Derek's review. I'll practice it as I work on flattening one side of my rough stock to prep for the planer.

I do like the feel and cutting action of the plane. I tried to post a picture of it sitting on the Ace, King and Queen of spades on my tablesaw, but for some reason the uploads didn't work. One more thing to work on.