Sears Shaper, time for a new motor, how large?

[Bruce Seidner]

I have a 30+ year old Sears Shaper 113.239201 and the 1/2hp motor is on its last lap. It is a 1/2" spindle and has worked alright. Bushing let it accept 3/4" cutting bits, but its a little underpowered.

Issues of motor mount compatibility aside, how large a motor would stay withing a safe operating range for this machine?

I am not thinking of anything crazy and feed speed is not that important to me. I would like cleaner cuts in harder woods. So, would a 1hp or 1.5hp motor with the same rpm stress the bearings or the spindle? Heck, I have a 5hp 220v motor gathering dust, it weighs more than the shaper and seems a bad idea. But what do I know.

[lowell holmes]

I would go to Harbor Freight and buy a new motor. It may be ok, but 5hp on a shaper just seems scary to me.

My 25 year old Delta shaper just isn't beefy enough to take the abuse that might result from the big motor.

[Rod Sheridan]

Bruce, I wouldn't go larger than 1 HP on a shaper with a spindle that small..........Regards, Rod.

[Peter Quinn]

I was given the same era of shaper by my father, came with an Emerson 1/2 hp open drip motor, basically an over grown sewing machine motor. I tried it, it was barely used over the years, far as I'm concerned those motors were on their last lap when they left the factory. No power, a real slow cope cut in soft wood could stop it dead.

I replaced it with a 3/4 hp tefc motor from grizzly, night and day difference. Works great now, I have several bigger shapers so the little guy is a dedicated cope machine for cabinet doors. That shaper might take a 1 hp but I wouldn't exceed that and think 3/4hp is probably enough. But I've never used it for moldings and such. I do bush up a 3/4" cabinet set on the 1/2" spindle.

[John Hubbs]

Bruce,
I had two shapers like yours. They were made about 5 years apart. One had a 3/4 HP motor on it, the other a 1 HP motor. Here is pic of them side by side.
All the other parts on the shapers are exactly the same. you should be okay at 1 HP. I wouldnt go above that.20150620_141849.jpg
If you have any Craftsman tools, you know how they overstate HP of their machines. LOL
I believe you need a 56 frame motor. As long as you match frame and RPM you should be okay.
Regards, John.

[Bruce Seidner]

Gentlemen,

Pure gold. Thank you.

I have moved and need to rebuild a shop. I have an empty 2 car garage filled with boxes and tools that is a blank canvas for a shop. I was thinking the fastest way to half lap a bunch of untreated pine 4x4's for work table frames and equipment stands is the shaper and a 1.5" rabbet cutter. This would be the final death knell for an already struggling 40 year old 1/2HP motor. I have a 1HP motor that powers a 1940's Dunlap bench top 7" table saw that I use infrequently and will press into service.

My feelings would not be hurt if Y'all had a faster way to knock out half laps for joining 4x4's. I would rather use a shaper than dado's on a table saw. There is likely a half dozen other ways to do this and I am game.

Cheers,
Bruce

[Peter Quinn]

Gentlemen,

Pure gold. Thank you.

I have moved and need to rebuild a shop. I have an empty 2 car garage filled with boxes and tools that is a blank canvas for a shop. I was thinking the fastest way to half lap a bunch of untreated pine 4x4's for work table frames and equipment stands is the shaper and a 1.5" rabbet cutter. This would be the final death knell for an already struggling 40 year old 1/2HP motor. I have a 1HP motor that powers a 1940's Dunlap bench top 7" table saw that I use infrequently and will press into service.

My feelings would not be hurt if Y'all had a faster way to knock out half laps for joining 4x4's. I would rather use a shaper than dado's on a table saw. There is likely a half dozen other ways to do this and I am game.

Cheers,
Bruce

Got a bandsaw? I can't think of a faster way to half lap thick material. If the half laps are in the middle of a leg perhaps a dado on a RAS?

[Bruce Seidner]

Got a bandsaw? I can't think of a faster way to half lap thick material. If the half laps are in the middle of a leg perhaps a dado on a RAS?

I am not brave enough for a RAS. They spook me. But yes, the bandsaw is quick. I likely need to get beefier blades and increase the tension so cuts in thick material track better. I will set up a competition and see which method works best. The only other time I notched or lapped 4x4's I just used a circular saw, thin sliced, and hammered out the waste. Plenty refined for an outdoor deck. I am thinking this is the last shop I will be building on this green earth so I would like the finish to be closer than I can get with this method. I have never cut a 4x4 with anything other than a circular or chain saw. Probably need to experiment a bit anyway.

[Peter Quinn]

Another option rather than notching if you are able to get
things flat enough for a glue up is to use 2x4 rather than 4x4 and just glue up the legs leaving spaces where the notches would have been. We've made some pretty stout work benches that way using 6/4 poplar and Doug fir studs too. Saves all that notching. I've done them with a skill saw and speed square before, it's pretty quick, you can stay just shy of final depth and clean up the bottoms with a long pattern bit in a router, but to me no cutting at all is even better.

[Bruce Seidner]

Laminating 2x4's works for me too and I did that on a more permanent shop. But I think I have found a source for decent untreated 4x4's and I want these pieces to break down without too much trouble and so I am thinking half lap's and a couple standoff bolts at the joints. I can always glue them if they are rickety.

I am warming to the band saw option. This is all boot strapped and nothing is set up. My TS is not assembled and up and running yet. The thought of replacing the shaper motor is giving me pause. And it now seems quicker to tune up the miter saw and change a blade in the band saw. I will knock out an assembly table this weekend or next to get me up and running.

Thanks all for the feed back and opportunity to think out loud.