Hardware to attach false drawer fronts

[David Wadstrup]

I'm just about ready to attach my first false drawer fronts and have a question concerning hardware. I'll be using Blum's drawer front adjusters and single screw pulls. And because the drawers are large(34" x 10") I figure that additional screws, maybe 4, one in each corner of the sub front, will be necessary. This means that I will have 7 total screws visible from the inside of the drawer: 2 that attach to Blum's eccentric adjusters, 4 to attach the front to the sub-front, and 1 to attach the drawer pull.

I'm not at all happy about how all of this hardware will affect the overall aesthetics of the inside of the drawers -- my drawer boxes are made of 3/4" solid walnut and are quite beautiful. Does anyone here have any suggestions on how to reduce the number of total screws visible from the inside? Or how to hide them? I figure I can counterbore them. Still, though, this will be unsightly. Especially as I won't be able to plug the holes with dowels as I'll want to maintain access to the screws should adjustment become necessary with seasonal movement.

Maybe there simply is no solution. Maybe I'll just have to get used to living with all of this visible hardware. But I'd love to hear of anyone's ideas or suggestions on how to hide them.

Thanks in advance!

[George Bokros]

Not sure what Blum adjusters need screws from the inside of the drawers. I have used Blum slides and have never had screws from the inside for the adjusters or locks. On a drawer that size I would use four screws to hold the false front on and one to hold the handle. On smaller drawers I use two screws to hold the false front and one for the center handle.

As for hiding the screws I do not know any way. All my builder installed kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities have three screws but the drawers are not that large.

[John Vernier]

I've always figured, that anyone who goes to the trouble of sticking their head far enough into a drawer to see what is happening on the back of the drawer front, deserves to have their illusions shattered. Remember that in the days when hand-cut dovetails were common, you will frequently find that the dovetails on a drawer front are severely over-cut on the inside of the back, to speed the manufacturing, but leaving unsightly saw kerfs in place. The assumption is that nobody will look there. The reality is that only other woodworkers will look there.

[Dave Richards]

You could get that down to 6 screws by attaching the pull only to the false front. Or, since the drawer boxes are solid, why not counter bore the screw holes and plug the holes? Flush plugs installed correctly will be nearly invisible even if someone does get their head stuck in their drawers.

[Dan Neuhaus]

If your drawer box has a typical 1/2" recess in the bottom you can attach the lower screws from below the drawer bottom. Depending on the overlay and style of door (shaker with narrow rails) its the only choice.

[Lee Schierer]

I'm not at all happy about how all of this hardware will affect the overall aesthetics of the inside of the drawers -- my drawer boxes are made of 3/4" solid walnut and are quite beautiful.

As others have noted, you are really over thinking this. No one except you is going to see the screws. I would put in the adjusting screws and get the fronts adjusted where you want them then add the remaining screws to secure the front exactly where it belongs for the long run.

[Jim Dwight]

Drywall screws would be less noticeable (because they are black).

[Mike Cutler]

David

I am assuming there is a reason that you just don't glue the drawer fronts.

Four keyhole hangers can be installed. One at each corner, acting as "sliding locks" for drawer face. This hardware would be in between the drawer front and face, thus invisible. Whatever is attaching your pulls would hold everything in place.

[Tom M King]

There are special screws just for this purpose. You can drill a slightly larger hole for the first couple, and have some adjustment room before sending the last two home. I have countersunk them, and plugged. Check Woodworkers' Supply.

[Lee Schierer]

Drywall screws would be less noticeable (because they are black).

Dry wall screws are not a good choice, they are too brittle for wood working and should only be used for drywall.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

I like to use double sided masking tape to mount the fronts. It's thin enough to be invisible, and after a few days, it's incredible strong. The screws in the blum adjuster's are enough to hold the front on tight and apply pressure to the tape.
The tape also makes it easier to mount the fronts. You just line them up, and press into place. Then carefully open the drawer and add your screws.

[Ellen Benkin]

This may seem naïve, but what are "adjusting screw"?

[Joel Gelman]

SM: I just took it up and then I did a job for Howard Ahmanson. I did his office at Fireman's Insurance on Wilshire. I had done triple miters and there was a group working for a big cabinet maker. I remember this old Swede was looking at it and I thought, "Uh-oh. I wonder what he's going to say," and he said, "Why did you do this?" At the bottom, I had triple-miter corners. He says, "No one's ever going to see that. You didn't have to do that." I said, "But I will see it," and so I maintained my integrity.

[George Bokros]

You could get that down to 6 screws by attaching the pull only to the false front.

What do you do if the pull loosens, you have no way to hold the screw so you can tighten the pull unless you took the false front off.

[Jay Aubuchon]

Ellen, I believe we are talking about hardware like this: draw front adjuster.