Help with cutting a slot in the end of a workbench

[Al Bacon]

Well I've reached the point where I have to cut "the slot". The bench top is 1 3/4 Maple and the slot for the spine ( 1/2" plywood) needs to be in the middle about 2" from each end. However every way I can think of cutting it seems a little (or a lot) risky. If I need to buy a cutter I will, in fact I probably will need too.
I know you guys will have some sound suggestions so.....

HELP

[Jamie Buxton]

So if the maple top is horizontal, the slot you're talking about is horizontal? And it is in end-grain, not face-grain?

How deep is this slot? Maybe an inch?

I'd do it with a plunge router, equipped with an edge guide. I'd stand the top on end. I'd rest the router base on the end of the top (which is now facing the sky). I'd set up the edge guide for whatever spacing you want between the slot and one face of the top. I'd probably make multiple passes, with a 3/8" bit. I'd move the edge guide to get the exact fit for your half inch plywood, which of course isn't a half inch. If it is important that the slot be exactly in the middle of the maple, you can make one set of passes with the edge guide on one face of the top, and another set of passes with the edge guide on the other face.

[Vince Shriver]

How about using a 3/8" slot cutter and run the slot all the way to the end of the top. You'd have to do two passes. After the first pass on the table, I'd cut another slot on a piece of scrap the same way. Adjust the router to accommodate your spline with the second pass on the practice piece . After fitting the spline, make the final pass on the table top. Fill in the last 2" with two pieces of maple with the grain running the same way as the surface. Plane it flush on the surface, and trim the ends with a flush trim bit.

[Al Bacon]

Can a flush trim bit be plunged into the end grain like a stopped dado?
I ask because I also have to cut a matching slot in the end cap.

[glenn bradley]

Slot cutter in a hand held router is how I would do this. As a matter of fact it is how I just did this. I used the top as a reference and made multiple passes to get the depth and height I was after . . . Unbelievable. I don't have a single picture of this build showing the splines!?!

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There is a spline that stops about 1-1/2" from the corner running down each outer edge. The maple trim and trim/rear jaw all have grooves in them that fit onto these splines during glue up. I still can't believe I don't have a picture of it pre-assembly???

[Greg Hines, MD]

Can a flush trim bit be plunged into the end grain like a stopped dado?
I ask because I also have to cut a matching slot in the end cap.

If you are plunging in, you would be better served by a spiral upcut bit. I would suggest you need one anyway for many other operations, but this is where it excels. The slot cutter mentioned would enter from the side, and just set a stop to limit the travel of the router in that case.

Doc

[Jamie Buxton]

A difference between the slot cutter approach and the plunged straight-bit approach is the depth of cut. Slot cutters are somewhat limited in depth of cut, whereas the straight bit can go deeper.

[Al Bacon]

And in the end I just routed a tongue on the end because it seemed the simplest way forward. Now I just have to cut the mortise in the end cap.

Thanks for the suggestions.

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[Kevin Woodhead]

Brilliant decision. Faster, safer and same joint strength in the end.