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Thread: Has anyone dyed stringing for inlay?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Smith View Post
    The thickness of the veneer is matched to the thickness of your cutter so that the veneer goes into the groove on edge. You can plow out the groove as deep as you like, cut the veneer slightly wide, then sand flush after it is glued in.
    OK - thanks - goes in on edge - I was envisioning flat. Got it.

    But then - what is most veneer? .030? .040? Narrow groove. Assume you can/may double up?
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Kent A Bathurst View Post
    OK - thanks - goes in on edge - I was envisioning flat. Got it.

    But then - what is most veneer? .030? .040? Narrow groove. Assume you can/may double up?
    Regular commercial veneer is 1/42".

    When I double or triple up, I make a form in the shape of the curve and glue the veneer together in that shape. Then sand it on both edges to make sure there will be no gaps at the bottom when I put it in. It would be embarrassing to sand the stringing down and get a gap.

    For example, on the top of the corner cabinet that I made recently, that's how I made the curves at the end of the walnut veneer. But I put those in before I laid the veneer - it was part of the veneer panel. An alternate way to do it is to lay the veneer, then come back with a Dremel on a circle cutter and route out the curve for the stringing.

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 08-17-2015 at 1:24 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Hi Frederick
    your stringing is bound to improve
    did you see where Latta gets his Holly from Groff & Groff; I'm no expert but Holly works wonderfully cause of tight even grain-like butter
    be sure to tell them if you want pale white etc or u might get off tones
    they likely have other wood that lends itself to stringing
    In particular, I will probably undertake some ebony stringing in some kinda exotic in the next few days
    Ebony cause of previously mentioned dye permeation issues-I need black
    And you gotta be aware of whatever color your stringing is doesn't get pushed into surrounding main wood when scraping it @ finish-after glue sets, etcetera
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    Do let us know how the vinegar turns out. I think you soak the strips in vinegar for a few days,then while they are wet,put them into the dye.

    if you Google "dye penetration into veneer",you will find that some dyes are coarser than others,and don't penetrate as well. Also depends upon the wood too. Soft maple takes dye better than hard maple for instance.
    Thanks George! I'll keep you posted. I'll also google as you suggested!
    Fred

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by David Ragan View Post
    Hi Frederick
    your stringing is bound to improve
    did you see where Latta gets his Holly from Groff & Groff; I'm no expert but Holly works wonderfully cause of tight even grain-like butter
    be sure to tell them if you want pale white etc or u might get off tones
    they likely have other wood that lends itself to stringing
    In particular, I will probably undertake some ebony stringing in some kinda exotic in the next few days
    Ebony cause of previously mentioned dye permeation issues-I need black
    And you gotta be aware of whatever color your stringing is doesn't get pushed into surrounding main wood when scraping it @ finish-after glue sets, etcetera
    Thanks David. Yes, I improved noticeably yesterday when I reviewed the video to see how Latta was holding/operating his stringing tools - I was holding them all wrong and correcting that really increased my control of the work!

    Drat! I missed the reference to groff & groff. Thanks for pointing it out!
    Fred

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    6,426
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    Regular commercial veneer is 1/42".

    When I double or triple up, I make a form in the shape of the curve and glue the veneer together in that shape. Then sand it on both edges to make sure there will be no gaps at the bottom when I put it in. It would be embarrassing to sand the stringing down and get a gap.

    For example, on the top of the corner cabinet that I made recently, that's how I made the curves at the end of the walnut veneer. But I put those in before I laid the veneer - it was part of the veneer panel. An alternate way to do it is to lay the veneer, then come back with a Dremel on a circle cutter and route out the curve for the stringing.

    Mike
    10.4. Mike - I've got that burned into the relevant synapses now - makes sense the way you described it............

    thanks
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

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