Regular commercial veneer is 1/42".
When I double or triple up, I make a form in the shape of the curve and glue the veneer together in that shape. Then sand it on both edges to make sure there will be no gaps at the bottom when I put it in. It would be embarrassing to sand the stringing down and get a gap.
For example, on the top of the corner cabinet that I made recently, that's how I made the curves at the end of the walnut veneer. But I put those in before I laid the veneer - it was part of the veneer panel. An alternate way to do it is to lay the veneer, then come back with a Dremel on a circle cutter and route out the curve for the stringing.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Henderson; 08-17-2015 at 1:24 PM.
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Hi Frederick
your stringing is bound to improve
did you see where Latta gets his Holly from Groff & Groff; I'm no expert but Holly works wonderfully cause of tight even grain-like butter
be sure to tell them if you want pale white etc or u might get off tones
they likely have other wood that lends itself to stringing
In particular, I will probably undertake some ebony stringing in some kinda exotic in the next few days
Ebony cause of previously mentioned dye permeation issues-I need black
And you gotta be aware of whatever color your stringing is doesn't get pushed into surrounding main wood when scraping it @ finish-after glue sets, etcetera
David
Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)
Thanks David. Yes, I improved noticeably yesterday when I reviewed the video to see how Latta was holding/operating his stringing tools - I was holding them all wrong and correcting that really increased my control of the work!
Drat! I missed the reference to groff & groff. Thanks for pointing it out!
Fred