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Thread: Dust collector build

  1. #1
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    Dust collector build

    I find most store bought dust collectors seem to be either expensive, or under powered, or too small an impeller, or both, and to boot often an ineffective impeller in aluminum with straight vanes.

    Since I am too cheap and poor to splurge on an expensive DC that would meet my own standards I decided to build my own after seeing people like Matthias Wandel and Marius Hornberger and others building their own homemade dust collectors.

    Here's what I got so far, an 18" diameter impeller, highly curved backwards vanes with a top plate. Top plate increases performance and strength of the design.



    It's been balanced and tested, it sounds like a jet engine. It's driven by a 5.3HP 2880RPM 3-phase motor I picked up for 25 bucks. I had a 10 meter extension cored wired to my onoff switch and stood outside the garage when running it. When it's done it will be put in another smaller storage room and remotely started.

    Spinning down


    This isn't a material handling impeller, that's the trade-off for a more efficient design. I will build a separator and also add a manifold with multiple cylindrical HEPA filters before the impeller, like what you can get for shop vacs. So it only sees clean air and then returns that to my shop. In the summer I might just eject the air outside.

    I am using multiple filters in my design because the outlet hole for a single filter is going to be too small. One could also use a big rectangular filter, but I am not sure if those are more or less effective. I can buy the cylindrical ones locally quite cheaply.

    I think that if I didn't want to return the air I wouldn't use any filters, just separate and have like chicken wire to protect the impeller from big pieces. But I believe I want to, I was told an impeller this size only needs a few seconds to empty all the air in a small shop, that's no fun if it's -20C outside.

  2. #2
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    Dennis, that is one big impeller. Do you have any idea on what it will spec? What are you planning to use for ductwork?
    When working I had more money than time. In retirement I have more time than money. Love the time, miss the money.

  3. #3
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    I'm not quite sure how to test the CFM, I know how to test the suction using a DIY manometer, but CFM I am not sure about. I think it's also best to test it running through the actual ductwork.

    For ductwork I am going for 6" ducting

  4. #4
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    Dennis,

    That looks impressive. It should be fairly safe if you make a sturdy scroll housing for it. Having it in a separate enclosure would help with the noise and the safety aspect. Are you going to build a cyclone, or use a Thien separator? The pull through design is unusual and I will be interested to see how it works. I think that was a wise design choice to make sure nothing other than the finest dust hits that impeller. The pipe size should be at least 6". That blower will flow an enormous amount of air and it would be silly to choke it with too-small piping. Please let us see the rest of the build and installation.

  5. #5
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    Thanks, I'll update the thread when I have more to show for myself, it's basically just that for now, but it was maybe the hardest part too. Doing a lot of stuff at the moment, but I'll post updates here when they happen, I think it's going to be a long project.

  6. #6
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    Very cool build! Can't wait to see how it comes along. If you are indeed curious once you've completed the build, you can measure the CFM by measuring the velocity at a given inlet and multiplying it by the area of that inlet. You'll need an anemometer for the velocity measurement.

    So for a 4 inch duct (area of about 0.087 ft^2) and a measurement of 4000 ft/min... you'll have approx. 4000 x (0.087) = 350 CFM.
    Last edited by Mike Snead; 08-24-2015 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Math Fail

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Aspö View Post
    I'm not quite sure how to test the CFM, I know how to test the suction using a DIY manometer, but CFM I am not sure about. I think it's also best to test it running through the actual ductwork.
    You can easily check the CFM using your DIY manometer and a DIY pitot tube. After you've built the housing and installed the fan you can generate a fan curve for that fan/housing combination. If you also record the motor current at the various flows you can then use that data to look up or calculate CFM based upon motor current. That gives you an in situ CFM reading for whatever ductwork you might install. That is, the relationship between motor current and total CFM (actually mass flow) through the blower doesn't change with filters, ducts, ports, etc.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Gunning View Post
    Are you going to build a cyclone, or use a Thien separator?
    I missed this, but a thien style separator is what I am building, using a large bucket. I'd like to go over 6" for the main trunk, perhaps 7 or 8", but it's what's easiest to find.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Aspö View Post
    I missed this, but a thien style separator is what I am building, using a large bucket. I'd like to go over 6" for the main trunk, perhaps 7 or 8", but it's what's easiest to find.
    Large bucket isn't going to cut it. More like a 55 gallon drum. Do baffle as a "Top Hat," so you don't lose bin capacity.

  10. #10
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    The separator itself will be a bucket in a top hat style, I've got the plans from Matthias wandels dust collector build to scale up. I have an 8 gallon bucket I am planning to use, it's one of those brute style bins. I'm not yet sure what to use as a receptacle. a 55 gallon drum will be large and difficult to keep in the constrained space.

  11. #11
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    Dennis, I agree with Bruce. I built my system with a 55 gallon drum and the impeller I mounted above. If you use a jointer it will fill 8 gallons in no time and depending on the bucket your impeller may collapse it. I'm going to post pictures of my system in a day or so. Shop foot print is 30" x 30".
    When working I had more money than time. In retirement I have more time than money. Love the time, miss the money.

  12. #12
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    The 8 gallon is just the separator portion itself, the collection bin will come underneath. I've thought of the possibility of it collapsing too, not sure if it will do that or not. If it does I can reinforce it or use something else, but the shape and size of this bucket makes it suited for this task.

  13. #13
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    Guess I'm having one of those days. I was thinking 8 gallon collection, even though you said different.
    When working I had more money than time. In retirement I have more time than money. Love the time, miss the money.

  14. #14
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    Dennis,

    With an 18" impeller of the more efficient design that you are using, driven by a 5HP motor, you are going to need very sturdy containers and collection piping. Collapsing them is a very real possibility. The 8 gallon container for the Thien separator will likely need some kind of bracing. I would really like to see what CFM number your blower develops.

  15. #15
    Dennis,
    You are now in BEAST mode. Congrats.

    Considering my own similar, so couple of questions- -
    With 18" OD of backplate, what are other dimensions:
    - ID of shroud opening?
    - Height of blades (backplate to shroud)?
    - Camber of blades (radius of curvature)?
    - 'Beta1' angle (blade's angle of attack)?
    - # of blades (12 maybe?)?

    Any idea of the amps during test run?

    Thanks and make sure the kids and pets are outside the minimum-safe-distance. ...guessing that's >50ft.
    Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 08-26-2015 at 8:50 PM.

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