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Thread: Extremely hard wood

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    259

    Extremely hard wood

    I'm working on a vase right now from a cherry stump. It is so hard it dulls my Thompson gouge after one pass. This piece is making me feel like I just started turning. This thing is so frustrating its makes me want to quit turning for the day. It had been drying for at least five years under the deck, so it is completely dry.

    Do do you guys have any tips to get this thing finished, besides perseverance.

    Here is the piece in question.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Inver Grove Heights, MN
    Posts
    798
    It is going to be beautiful. A great piece of wood. keep sharpening and keep cutting. I wonder if it doesn't contain some sand or dirt because of it coming from a stump. Regardless of the cause it looks like a great piece and worth the effort.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Collierville, TN
    Posts
    112
    I recently had a piece of hickory like that. I roughed it green and it cut like butter. I went to finish it, and found it harder than Chinese arithmetic. Patience and perseverance.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    Consider obtaining a Woodcut hollowing tip or tool--it will hollow it in a reasonable time.

  5. #5
    I had a honey locust log once that was horrible to rough out when wet. It was so bad I threw the other half of the log in the burn pile, but after the rough out dried I didn't have any issues. Really strange.
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    No, it's not thin enough yet.
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  6. #6
    My only tip is don't give up. It's a beautiful piece of wood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Escondido, CA
    Posts
    6,224
    On a couple of my very hard woods, like a very dry eucalyptus, the best tool was a small (3/4" x 5/16") round nose scraper.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Toronto, CA
    Posts
    320
    I worked with root pieces before and had the same issue.
    Sand and other grit were the issue.

    I finally gave up on the gouge and went to a 1/4" carbide tip. Lasted longer, easier to sharpen and its cheap, didnt cut as smooth though.

    So I used the gouge for only the last passes.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Tropical North Queensland Australia.
    Posts
    116
    Quote Originally Posted by Olaf Vogel View Post
    I worked with root pieces before and had the same issue.
    Sand and other grit were the issue.

    I finally gave up on the gouge and went to a 1/4" carbide tip. Lasted longer, easier to sharpen and its cheap, didnt cut as smooth though.

    So I used the gouge for only the last passes.
    Brad, exactly what Olaf has written is the best advice. A lot of the wood I use is like that or OK to turn when still green, but when it drys out all the Silica crystalizes and it becomes an emery wheel to your tools.
    rgds,
    Richard.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    259
    Quote Originally Posted by Olaf Vogel View Post

    I finally gave up on the gouge and went to a 1/4" carbide tip.
    That sounds like what I need. Whats your source for something like that?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    259
    Hollowing this thing has been a bear. It dulls the M42 3/16" cutters after about thirty seconds of hollowing. High speeds will dull them almost instantly, I have found that my limit is 500 rpm to make the cutter last that long.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    Years ago I was gifted with a 13" log section of Zirocote dried 30+ years. Started on a faceplate and tried to cut the flat side. My best gouges (glasers) , parting tools ect. merely shined a ring on the face. Went through 45 or so tools of any breed before a cheap+++ 3/4" spindle gouge cut the wood. Must have been casehardened?? No fancy shape on that rascal. Finished outa plain bowl in about a month.

  13. Brad, you don't mention the size but one of Mike Jackofsky's Hollow-Pro tools with the small negative rake Hunter carbide cutters will make it much easier to deal with hard wood. The No.1- 7/32" cutter is probably your best bet for really hard stuff. The No. 2 Cutter at 5/16" diameter works best on softer woods for rapid stock removal.
    Big Mike

    I have done so much with so little for so long I am now qualified to do anything with nothing......

    P.S. If you are interested in plans for any project that I post, just put some money in an envelope and mail it to me and I will keep it.

  14. #14
    You may have better luck with your edges if you used a carbide tipped tool for all but the final finishing.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Piney Woods of Texas
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by robert baccus View Post
    Years ago I was gifted with a 13" log section of Zirocote dried 30+ years. Started on a faceplate and tried to cut the flat side. My best gouges (glasers) , parting tools ect. merely shined a ring on the face. Went through 45 or so tools of any breed before a cheap+++ 3/4" spindle gouge cut the wood. Must have been casehardened?? No fancy shape on that rascal. Finished outa plain bowl in about a month.
    Yup. I do a lot of laminated bowls. Just took one off the lathe. A nice glue up of Ziricote, Maple and Padauk. Even with Carbide tools it was a slow process.
    Finally had to give it a rest. It might just beat me. Got some olive on there now. Smells great. Like being on vacation.

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