Shop Cabinet Drawer Fronts.. Plywood or MDF?

[Corey Hallagan]

What would you guys use for drawer fronts on your shop cabs? 1/2 inch plywood or MDF? I think I like the looks of the MDF against the shellacked pine. What would last longer? Seems like ply might but will it delaminate after a time? Thanks for your help. I know, I know they are just shop cabinets

Corey

[Peter Pedisich]

Corey,

Hi, I would use MDF and here's why:

1) when poly'd or watco'd it gets pretty hard and durable, plus it looks cool like a school desk top.

2) plywood and particleboard edges get ratty after 3 years or so.

3) it's cheap.

Pete

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I'd use ply just because I'm opposed to mdf because of its weight. The MDF will probably look better painted or sealed and you can put a profile on it, but it weighs a ton.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Corey I used plain old 3/4" pine on my drawer fronts. Routered the front edge and stained them the same as the cabinets. Looks pretty good and with poly on them have stayed nice now for about 8 yrs. Just a thought. Hope you are feeling better Corey.


Bernie

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks guys, I like the look of the MDF myself, and the concern their is the weight just like Dennis says. I already have plywood and will get a small sheet of 1/2 inch mdf and see how heavy it is. To heavy and I will use plywood then.

Bernie, thanks feeling much better, got the ok from the doc today so it is back to work on monday. Man did it go fast. Bernie, that would be my ultimate choice as well, however here lies the problem. a Couple of the drawers are tool storage drawers that will house some 13 inch tall craftsman routers and the Dewalt routers that are 10-11 tall on the plunge base. So going pine won't work as no readily avialble material to use other than those mentioned.

Thanks all,
Corey

[Chris Padilla]

Drawer fronts aren't that big so I think it's a toss-up. MDF is cheaper and paints more nicely...either one could be edged in hardwood if you desired and then no worries about delams or damage (for a while).

[Tim Sproul]

Is there a reason why solid wood has been nixed?

[Alan Turner]

For me, this is why I save shorts. I would go with solid wood.

[Bart Leetch]

Corey

If you use MDF the corners ding pretty easy & its pretty heavy.

I'll invite you to look at my web site go to the page 5 it shows what you can do with plain old shop grade 3/4" fir. The cabinet under my contractors saw isn't in the shop anymore because of getting a Unisaw & the cabinet for the Unisaw isn't stained yet.

The top of the big multi tool cabinet is 1" stained MDF.

My site is a free site & it has pop ups just close the pop ups.

[Mike Cutler]

Corey. Given a choice of ply, or MDF. I'd probably go MDF if I was going to paint it, and Ply with edgebanding if I wanted to stain it.
One more option tho'. The local Borg used to carry a material called "Project Board" It was a 2'x4', 3/4" thick Pine panel already glued up. Can't say if they still have it though.

[Jim Becker]

I prefer solid wood as Alan mentions, but of the two you ask about, I'd choose MDF for false fronts over plywood unless I wanted to go to the trouble of edge banding it...a manual process in my shop. That said, even the plywood would work for me given I also prefer inset doors, so the edges wouldn't show then the drawer is closed. (And I am very anal about closing doors and drawers...just ask Dr. SWMBO who is the opposite... )

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I made 3/4" plywood drawers and 'framed' them with Mahogany, leaving the center open to the plywood behind...redneck flat panel drawer fronts....

[Corey Hallagan]

Ohhh... those project boards or handi panels, I forgot about those. Both HD and Menard sell those. Worth buying one of those to get all the large drawer fronts out of. I would prefer all wood fronts but didnt' think it was worth the effort to glue up boards. The rest I can use just regular 1 x material. Great idea! I don't want to stain my cabs. I want to leave them natural with a poly coat on them.
Kelly, man if my kitchen cabs turn our half as good as your shop drawers I will be doing good. Pretty spiffy!
Thanks guys!
Corey

[Bernie Weishapl]

Corey, what I did on my 14 1/2" drawer was finger joint and glued 2 pieces of pine 1" X 8" together which made them about 16" wide. I then cut it down to size and routed the edges. I did the same thing on a 12 3/4" drawer front. Just a thought.

Bernie

[Steve Clardy]

I've done either solid wood [poplar] or strawboard, in my shop. My shop doesn't look like a lawyers office, so I use whatever scraps are laying around.